Mary in India

World's Best Countries

2010-08-30T21:05:00.001-07:00

Interestingly, I was watching The Colbert Report yesterday and busted up laughing at his usual comments regarding Canada, Americans love to poke fun at Canada. And no, I don't know why, we just do. The episode was hilarious though, he discusses the latest article in Newsweek magazine on "The World's Best Countries".

Check out the clip here... (the embed didn't work on blogger for some reason, but please check out the clip before reading further)

This prompted me to research the article in Newsweek he was talking about, the "World's Best Country" ratings. I checked out their website where they have an "Interactive Infograph" of EVERY country in the world and it's rankings with Education, Health, Quality of Life, Economic Dynamism, and Political Environment. It was fascinating to see, and very surprising. Surprising to me that the U.S. made it as high as 11 on the rankings list. Considering our horrible health care system and education falling farther and farther behind. But I suppose 11 seems somewhat accurate. I was also surprised that Japan was not higher, only making it to number 9. Tsk tsk Japan!

Anyway, of course I looked up India, which made it to a shocking (yet not shocking) #78. Wow. I mean I imagined them behind, but I was surprised such countries like Honduras, Tunisia, Colombia, Philippines, Jordon, among other Middle Eastern countries that were ranked higher than India. As I said...makes sense, yet doesn't, and why is that? I can only explain it this way, it's due to the huge extremes in India. A massive difference between the "haves" and "have nots". It's so drastic sometimes you almost forget that like NOBODY shops at these malls you go to, except you, other expats, and the other 10% of the country who actually can. You live in a huge contrast, especially when volunteering where you see the lowest of the low, yet go shop at what (In India) is considered the best of the best. It's just weird.

Even Botswana and Kenya ranked higher on Education than India, tsk tsk India.

Check the stats for yourself here. (scroll down to #78 and hover over India)

AIC is on CNN ~

2010-07-27T02:15:00.000-07:00

There was a huge excitement over the fact that Liz & Julia (founders of AIC) got - our oldest boy at AIC- Akash into this exclusive summer camp program in the U.S. at Exeter Academy. The school even gave him a full scholarship into their (very expensive) program, and an AIC donor offered to pay for his round trip ticket. This all happened back in January/February, and it was such a big deal that he was accepted, it's a very difficult program to get into. He was so excited. Every time we spoke he would ask questions about the U.S. and what to expect, he loved talking about it. I remember telling him about how in the US we don't have dogs running around wild like in India. He thought that was so strange, he said "Well then where are all the dogs?" I said, "Mostly people own them, as pets, they are loved and cared for." I told him "The ones that don't have homes go into animal shelters until they're adopted." This concept was so foreign to him and fascinating. I was explaining traffic laws, and how you can't just cross the street in the U.S. where ever you want like in India. How everything is going to be very clean, and no trash on the ground (mostly). It was like describing heaven....a dreamland to him.

He was beyond excited. Akash has never really been outside of Pune, let alone India. Everyone was so excited for this to happen for him. I couldn't wait for him to return to India after his time in the U.S. and give the other kids hope too. It would be good to give the other kids here some dreams to wish for in their own future. With their backgrounds, even though they live in this house and go to school and get fed everyday, it's hard to keep a hope alive that there is something actually better than this out there. That there is something more than just being fed and having a roof over your head. I really thought this trip with Akash would light their imaginations afire....give them the reality of what's possible for them. Help build their aspirations and give some real motivation.

It's extremely hard for an average Indian to get an American visa. Unlike U.S. citizens who can basically travel anywhere "visa-free", Indians cannot go anywhere without visas. Just getting Akash's birth certificates took months, City Hall here is ridiculously corrupt and refused to give any birth certificate to a slum kid unless bribes were paid (only way to get things done here). After finally receiving the passport, it was sent to the U.S. Consulate in Mumbai for the visa, where ultimately it was denied. Basically, because he is a slum boy. They won't send him to the U.S. for fear he'll just run off and never come back.

When I watch this it makes me cry. I guess because I know Akash and how excited he was. He doesn't talk to me about not getting his visa because he is still really upset about it. It really breaks my heart.

It was originally supposed to be done as a "Slum boy gets dream of going to the U.S." type of news piece, however they changed the story after his visa was denied.

'Dashed Dreams' on CNN

Monsoon Season, time to get wet!

2010-07-26T00:50:00.000-07:00

There is something very magical about rain. Of course, being raised in Southern California where you get rain maybe 3 times a year probably has something to do with my personal feelings towards rain. I remember as a child those days where we'd have a full days rain (ultra rare) and it feeling like a real winter to me. You see, we don't have huge change in seasons in Southern California, it's pretty much glorious weather year round. Mild temperatures without a cloud in the sky. This is what I grew up with, never too hot, never too cold. Sounds boring, but when it's all you're used too, any change in weather is considered 'freaky'. Like rain. But oh how I loved the rain, such magic! Cold wet rain,wearing your raincoat, carrying and umbrella, coming home and warming up to a fire my Mom would light in the fireplace. This is my winter.

Of course for Remi it's much the opposite, he loathes the rain. Hailing from Lille (Northern France) where it rains continuously throughout the year, with gloomy cloudy weather every day. Having only a brief window of summer in which the sun graced you with it's presence...I can see why he hates the rain.

But, it's monsoon season in India right now and as I'm typing the rain is pouring outside my window. It has been raining steady for the past week now, usually stopping at night and starting again in the morning. I've never experienced rains like here in India before. Last year I arrived during monsoon, but I was told it was a somewhat weak season. But this year has been pretty much on the mark, pouring rain every day.

I love it. It makes me feel like a child again, the excitement of the rain falling, the sounds, the smell of wet asphalt. It makes me want to curl up on my couch and read a book while sipping hot coco. I can't help it, I love anything that makes me feel like a kid.

(Attached a news report of this years monsoon arrival, though it's in Hindi you can see some of the video of the rains)

Babblings on what it is to be a "Proud Indian"

2010-07-23T04:57:00.000-07:00

Living in India makes you (or at least it should make you) more interested in learning about the country itself. After all, you are living in it. As a result I spend some of my time researching many a questions.

Google has that interesting feature that lets you perfect your search to their most common phrased questioned. If you start typing this, "Why is India so " --- Google will pop up with some suggestions to finish your question. You might be interested to know the most commonly phrased questions on India. Number one being "Why is India so dirty" second being "Why is India so poor" and third "Why is India so hot".

Out of curiosity, I chose the number one question. "Dirty" was not as interesting as I'd thought it'd be. I was hoping for some thought provoking reasons, something to do with infrastructure, perhaps a time and date when things began to get bad, a politicians name from history. Some concrete evidence. But nothing really substantial came up, only Indian blogs titled "Why foreigners think India is so dirty" or questions posed to other Indians such as "Are we dirty?". Some were fairly good and had some interesting theories, but a majority do the same thing most Indians do. Which is to tell you you're wrong and that India is amazing and they'd never leave it in a million trillion years (even though they've never been anywhere else). Or they'll cop an attitude about the rumour even being passed around that their country IS dirty. Or the one I am most sick of hearing about, when they actually admit to their country being somewhat dirty but boast about how great their country will be later. Throw in some comments about how they'll kick everyone elses' ass in the THE FUTURE and you have yourself the typical majority response from the "Proud Indian" (notice I said majority, obviously not everyone feels this way).

The future, the future, the future. That's the trend I am noticing. It's all you'll see them say, on any given Youtube video showing India as is, poor people, dirt, animal cruelty. People actually comment "India doesn't look like that! Typical foreigners, always giving us a bad name by filming the bad areas." Which is a total lie I have to tell you. I came to India thinking there would be "bad areas", areas that were of course dirty, etc. But I assumed with all the money in India, and this emerging middle class, that surely there would be "nice areas" too? But there isn't, in fact when I first moved here I asked one of my fellow expats this (now ridiculous) question, "So where are the nice areas in town?" she laughed for about 5 minutes in my face. They simply DON'T EXIST.

India could be great. It's an undeniable fact. But they must let go of these fixations on being #1. Or should I say obsession? China is on the path to becoming AND will no doubt be #1, having just visited there I feel like they're light years ahead of India, especially when it comes to the standard of living. If India would stop looking outward and quit worrying about being better than everyone they may have a chance at being great in the next 50 years or so. But, it doesn't change how it is here NOW, does it? India is still a dirty place to live in the present day. That is just a fact.

I do however look forward to seeing India's progress.

(Sidenote: Out of curiosity I typed, "Why is the US so --" the answers Google provided were also interesting. Since it's World Cup season, #1 was "bad at soccer", #2 dependant on oil, #3 "powerful" #4 "rich")

Finally home!!!

2010-07-12T00:26:00.000-07:00

Remi and I got back from our three week Asian vacation few days ago. Let me just say, three weeks is a long time!

I am only now able to reflect and begin going through all the photos. So far we have posted Beijing and Shanghai albums on our facebook. Still working on Hong Kong, Phuket, and Singapore. On top of that we have mountains of laundry to do and no food in the house.

Today however I visit the kids to give them some bracelets I picked up for them in Thailand. I'm so excited, I haven't seen them in nearly a month! I miss those guys so much! I am just hoping they don't fight over who gets what color bracelet (always an issue when lots of kids are involved).

Here is one pic from the first set of photos. Our journey began in Beijing, we visited the Great Wall on the second day. We walked so incredibly far that day that we actually got to parts of the wall which were empty of the typical tourist scene. It was so peaceful and amazing out there alone on this ancient piece of history. Though I did feel like I might die on a few of the really steep climbs, the reward was totally worth it!

I will post a better update this week...

In the meantime I leave you with a song my driver was singing to yesterday in the car. Oh India, how weird are your tastes in music...

Leisure.

2010-06-04T10:08:00.000-07:00

WOWIE...

Okay I know I haven't posted anything in awhile. *insert typical "I've been so BUSY!" comment*

(Warning! This entry is not really related to India.)

Remi and I are planning a large vacation (Yes, we Americans say "vacation" not "holiday") and the whole planning process has been a long one!

The trip has been in the works for the past couple months, we knew when Rem's school year here was up we'd finally have time to use up his vacation time. Since he is working in India for a French company he gets the French vacation days, which is 3-4 weeks! (So much nicer than the crappy American 2 weeks, ugh.)

Since we're in Asia, we thought we should do a grand vacation of Southeast Asian countries. Here's the itinerary: 1 week in China, starting in Beijing, head to Shanghai via train, from Shanghai to Hong Kong. End first week! (I know! Lots of craziness...) Second week in Thailand, predominantly in Phuket! (the beach pictured above.) We're super excited about this, we plan on relaxing in Kata Beach for 4 days, then switch to Patong Beach (party town) for some crazy fun! Third week we take the train from Thailand through Malaysia, stop off in Kuala Lumpur then head to Singapore. Four days in Singapore, of which one of the days will be spent taking a boat to one of the Indonesian islands for a day trip.

*takes a breath*

I've never had such a crazy vacation. My first trip to Japan came pretty close, since it was nearly three weeks and involved travelling all over Japan via bullet train. So needless to say we're totally beyond stoked for this much needed vacation!!!

I attempted to get our visas for China (the only country we're travelling to that's asking for one), but I was so confused by the websites and was nervous about sending our passports anywhere in India (things get lost here in the mail). But luckily the women who handles all the teachers travel visas offered to take care of both mine and Remi's, even though it was not business related.

So just today we received our visas! YAY.

In a week in a half I'll be in China!

Cute little noses!

2010-05-20T23:59:00.001-07:00

Check out these beauties!

(Pictured here is Geeta, Pooja, Poonam, Jyoti, and Sonali)

As many of you know, nose piercing is very common here in India. The girls had been begging Julia about getting their nose pierced for weeks now. We were trying to do it last week but some events pushed it back and just few days ago Tresta Didi took the girls finally to get their noses pierced. I'm so bummed I missed this day! In the words of Tresta Didi, "It was wild!"

(Sidenote: I am sooooo tempted to get my own nose pierced while here in India, but I promised my mother before I left that I wouldn't do it. So perhaps I will pickup a fake one instead. ;)

Give it time.

2010-05-16T21:21:00.000-07:00

Just like anywhere in the world, when you move somewhere new...it takes time to adjust.

Of course, moving into a culture that is completely alien to you...well that's like 100x harder for obvious reasons. When moving to a new place, it's people and their culture that can make or break you. To me, truly understanding someone (ie. their perspective, their culture) is harder than remembering new street names, finding a good place to buy fruits, or locating the post office.

The problem with living somewhere only two or three months is that you'll never truly know the place. Many people throughout my travels have told me it takes 6 months to really "get it", and it's so true.

India for me was such a roller-coaster. From the beginning phase, or what I called "denial" phase. I mostly kept telling myself "It's fine, it'll be OK, I like it, it'll grow on me, I like it, I still like it, omg is that child pooping on the sidewalk?!" when the reality inside me was more like, "WHAT HAVE I DONE?!"

This passes however into the later "hatred" phase. Unfortunately, after about 3-4 months in India I began to hate it. It took me so much energy just to try to convince myself it was all going to be OK, that it's not "that bad" here. I grew tired of it, I gave into the hatred that was fuming inside. All along I had wanted to be angry at the men who cheat me on rickshaws, or the electrician who promises to come but never does, the waiter who continually over-charges my card, the incredibly slow and unhelpful bank clerks, the cutting in line women do, the street children opening my car door asking me for money, the list goes on and on. Nothing was easy here, everything was hard. Let me just say it once more, every single thing you do here...is INCREDIBLY difficult.

It was during this hatred phase that Remi and I took our well earned vacation from India in December. We'd officially been living here for 4 months when we left. We had a wonderful Christmas vacation in Tokyo and then back home to California, which really lifted our spirits. While home we both spewed opinions on India, quick to say what was wrong, quick to tell long amazingly frustrating stories to our families. Comments like "Wow I can't believe you guys have to deal with all that" always followed. It's not that we consciously went home to destroy India's image to our family, of course not. In fact if anything we wanted to paint the picture that said, "See, we're fine, we knew what we were getting into." But somehow quite the opposite happened. When someone asks you what you think about India, it's like all your anger and frustration begins to pour from you, and you just vent it all out like a poison that was looking for escape. You can't help it.

Once back in India, strangely, we both had a renewed hope. We felt different. There was no more escaping to home, no more vacations coming up. Just many long months in India ahead of us. We accepted it, so began our "acceptance" phase. By the end of January, my attitude had greatly changed. I was working now more often with the kids at my non-profit, learning words in Marathi from the kids, and important lessons from Julia Didi about India and how to improve your experience here.

Time it seemed, was really all I needed.

I became used to India, the culture became familiar, the annoyances became not only tolerable but went almost unnoticed to me. Patience came to me without trying. It now can just exist in me, almost as a new and permanent trait. No more taking a deep breath and telling myself to relax, or "that's just how it is here". Nothing seemed to bother me any more. Sure drivers still tried to cheat me, but I wasn't having it. I was comfortable now with yelling at a rickshaw driver, denying payment, or just jumping out of the rickshaw if need be. I was OK with shoving women in lines or saying, "Excuse me, I'm NEXT!" and making them move behind me. I ignore mostly all sales people even though they shadow my every move, I let them waste their time if they want. I know how to order food to get it brought to me accurately. I know when prices for fruits are too high and I know when haggling will help or when to walk away. I know how to get in and out of my little food market with ease. What once was a big ordeal, taking nearly 40 minutes, now takes me 15-20 minutes. I know how to ignore the women and children touching me, asking for money, and I lock my doors as reflex so they can't be opened. I on occasion do the "Indian head bobble" when speaking to other Indians and say "Ha" more often than I say "Yeah". I feel comfortable with my Indian wardrobe here, so comfortable in fact that even though I'm sweating in 100 degree heat, I don't complain. Eyes still follow me everywhere I go, but I've gotten used to the stares and that is something that can only happen with time.

All of these small things, all of these seemingly unimportant things are all what makes you feel comfortable in a place you call home. If you can't feel comfortable in the streets of your own town, you'll never like a place. You'll never open up to the people or the culture. You'll feel isolated, alone, and want to give up.

I realize now in these hot months of the Indian summer that I have moved beyond acceptance to a warm and fuzzy love, which you could call a "liking" phase. Yes it's true. India holds a special place in my heart. Through all the months of anger and frustrations and lots of "Why would anyone want to live here?!", I finally see India. I know sometimes I joke about my frustrations here, (it makes for an interesting read to the people back home) but when I am out in the streets of Pune, I really feel good here, I feel happiness, I feel comfort. I love watching all the shop keepers, the old men waiting at bus stops, the women in their colorful saris with babies in their arms. I love watching them as much as they love watching me. Being here is truly a unique and priceless experience, and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

AIC Art Project

2010-05-15T00:14:00.000-07:00

Spent all day working with the kids on their posters. These will be hung up in the AIC Volunteer apartment as a sort of "Welcome to AIC, Welcome to India" thing. The volunteer apartment is currently mostly empty, so Tresta Didi and I thought it would be nice to include some warm well wishes from the kids on the walls. They all had such great ideas, they came out so well, can't wait to hang them up!

(Sidenote: I even made my own poster which the kids helped me color in, it's of Hanuman (the Hindu monkey God) and I have to admit he came out pretty cool!)

The "Expat Life"

2010-05-14T04:22:00.000-07:00

Or what Julia didi (pictured here) calls the "expat lifestyle".

Okay, so I didn't exactly foresee my life becoming one of these clichés. It just happened. Not to say that I don't have Indian friends, (do the children count? heh heh), but when you're an expat you tend to always go places where you run into more expats. You start chatting about India and what you're doing here and before you know it you have another friend. Whether they're Japanese, American, British, German, Canadian, French, or even Nepalese.

^ Pictured here is the infamous Solaris Pool near Hard Rock Cafe, it's packed with expats every Saturday and one of our favorite places to unwind on the weekends. The truth is, this is the only place I know of where you can swim in a bikini and not be stared at, which is why I think so many of us go there. (Fancy hotels excluded)

It's weird to think that the main thing you have in common is the fact you both stand out here. That alone is enough to automatically make you friends with pretty much any foreigner you meet. The usual questions come up, "Why are you here?" "Where do you work?" "How long?" "What do you think of India?" (That question always being my favorite, the long drawn out pauses that follow this question are hilarious.)

The expat circle you make becomes larger and larger, until there is no real dividing lines between yourself and them. Nationalities plays no part, you mix with such a variety of people from around the world that you don't even notice your differences. Also, I get to learn so much from them through their trials and tribulations here. And lets face it, that information is priceless!

One last thing on the expat subject, I've noticed from other fellow travellers that some people are very anti "expat" and the whole scene (whether it's expats in China, Vietnam, Thailand, whatever). But for me, I will say t his...it's comforting. I'm in a country that took me 6 freakin' months to finally adapt too, I get stared at constantly, asked for money every where I go, I should be allowed some foreign companions to empathize with now and again. Doesn't make me understand India any less because I hangout with expats. In fact, working with my NGO I see plenty sides to India that even Indians themselves don't ever see! So neener neener.

10 Interesting facts about Mary in India...

2010-05-04T10:20:00.000-07:00

Okay, sometimes randomly I think of something truly Indian that is cute, funny, annoying, frustrating, awesome, incredible, crazy, etc. Then I think, "Hey, I should blog about that..." However thinking it and blogging it are two different things. Honestly, once I start blogging I end up ranting and I don't come off saying what I'd really like too. I have a hard time writing about one topic without branching into many others.

To simplify this post, I am including random things I think about saying and never do.

Interesting facts: (I apologize if some turned into rants)

#1. I haven't worn jeans since December (my Christmas vacation in the states). For the simple reason that India is hot, and wearing jeans is uncomfortable. I enjoy my lighter (what we expats nicknamed "expat pants" because we're always wearing them) black balloon-y style Alladin pants. I also own a short pair of white cotton pants, lots of skirts, some linen slacks (like pyjama pants), and of course...plenty of leggings (we're India of course!). It's just more comfortable and easier for me. Also, I get stared at everywhere I go, and honestly...it feels nice for me to wear something less contoured to my body. The more hugging material does to me (like jeans on my ass) the more looked at I get and the weirder I feel.

#2. My head is almost always itchy. There are two reasons for this issue, one being the water here is dreadful. The quality of it would not pass as "usable" in the U.S.A. and I feel icky even using it to brush my teeth or shower. However I don't have the choice. To make the water somewhat "safe" they load it up with chemicals. Occasionally the water can be tasted when brushing our teeth and it's disgusting, and sometimes when we turn on the hot water for a shower it has a weird smell. So, whatever in is in the water, it agitates my scalp, giving me itchy scalp and sometimes dandruff. WHICH FYI - I HAVE NEVER HAD IN MY LIFE UNTIL MOVING HERE. It's horrible. The second issue that makes it worst is the heat, pollution, and humidity/dryness (going from AC rooms to intense humid heat).

#3. I stopped drinking coffee. The simple and fast explanation of this is that coffee sucks here and it's not even worth drinking, so I gave up my morning coffee. I'm sure my teeth will be happy, less coffee staining.

#4. I've become somewhat rude to sales people. It's true. It just sort of happens, they bring it out in me. They follow you around endlessly, staring at you. Sometimes in pairs, where both sales dudes will be looking you up and down speaking in Marathi to one another...no doubt it's about me. This is the Indian standard for "good service" following potential customers around the store like flies on stink. They just keep hovering, no matter how many times you tell them you don't need help or you're "just looking", I mean if I need help I'll ask for it. I've actually run away from sales people here. It's awkward and it can even make me hate shopping sometimes. Even at expensive malls I will get stared at non-stop. They don't even look away when I stare back at them with angry eyes...they just keep staring with this blank dumbfounded expression on their faces. Sometimes I just want to shout, "YEAH...I'M WHITE, GET OVER IT."

#5. The first and last movie I'll ever see in India was in January (see movie rant post). After an awful, and I mean ridiculously awful) movie experience, Remi and I have decided we'd rather download movies with shit quality than see them in the theaters here. To sum it up, too much late arrivals, too much talking during the movies, ridiculous National Anthem they make you stand up for, intermissions that disrupt the movie, people arriving late from intermission, cutting out scenes whenever they feel like it, opening the exit door with the last 2 minutes of the movie playing, and people actually LEAVING when the doors are opened. In short, there is zero respect for the art of cinema here. And any one who knows Remi and I knows how much we love going to the movies! We used to go to a movie every Sunday night together in SF. Movies are one of our favorite things, so we avoid seeing them here...it just breaks your heart.

#6. I don't sleep that well here. I mean, I sleep...but not that really delicious sleep you almost never want to wake up from. That amazing feeling of waking up on a cloud of comfort knowing you've sleep like 9-10 hours solid. That never happens here for me. Mostly because either an electrical outage in the night turns off my AC unit so the room heats up and within 20 minutes I am awake and sweating. Or, our bed. Our bed is hard as nails, and this is common here in India, as it is in Europe. So of course Remi sleeps fine, but I am often tossing and turning to find a good position. In general, I just wake up more from discomfort, it sucks.

#7. When I order drinks I order them very uniquely here, sort of my "tricks of the trade" if you will. You may take notes. :) First off, drinks in India are weak. Especially cocktails so don't order those unless you want some very EXPENSIVE JUICE. Beer is good, nice places will have imported beer on their menus, but from experience they're usually out of the one you ask for, and usually even your second choice they're out of as well. I dunno why, it just happens here a lot. Which leaves Indian beer, which leaves Kingfisher (I don't know why but I can't ever find other Indian beers like Cobra here). Kingfisher has is a delicious flavor but loaded up with fillers like glycerol (in amount that's illegal in Europe and U.S. beers) which can leave you with a nasty hangover the next day (and I mean NASTY). There is a trick to removing it, which I'd thought was a rumor by expats here but I managed to find a video how, you can check it here. To avoid this beer debacle, I learned that it's best to order just a good ol'fashioned shot, or a shot and your mixer/chaser separate. Sometimes servers look at me like I'm nuts but they'll do it. Since they don't have 'soda water' my traditional SF drink of 'vodka soda' is out of the question. I order a 'large wodka with a side bottle of perrier'. Explanation: "Large" means a regular shot size by U.S. standard, "wodka"...well you have to say the V sound with the W sound sometimes in India (it's their accent, they have a hard time pronouncing the V in English), especially since club music is entirely too loud and they already have trouble hearing what I say through my accent anyway. From personal experience, unless you want your drink ordered wrong it's best to sound as Indian as possible. The "side of perrier" is the closest thing they have to soda water and I use it as a chaser. It's very important to include "side" in your request or they will bring it combined. As they've often done to me.

So there is my full explanation of ordering drinks in India. :)

#8. I haven't worn real shoes in forever. I stick to sandals and flip-flops because they are more comfortable here. Anything with socks is too hot. As a result my feet are growing calluses that I have to file down every so often. It's annoying.

#9. I no longer flat iron my hair. Most people who know me see me with flat ironed hair. Only those in my family or who have lived with me (roomates, etc) know I actually have highly unmanageable curly/wavy hair. So I always have flat ironed it. However here, it's pointless. If I do manage to flat iron it, by the time I reach my destination in town it's already frizzy and beginning to wave-up again. The heat and humidity are not good for my hair. As a result, I've been trying new ways of just dealing with what my parents gave me. I've found some Moroccan coconut oils that keep the frizz down and ways to air dry my hair for optimum wavy locks. It's actually quite nice sometimes, so I guess I will thank India for forcing me finally deal with AND appreciate my hair for what it is, instead of always hiding it with a flat iron. (See pic above of long *hasn't been cut since December* wavy India hair).

#10. I think I've added at least 100 new freckles to my body. My Mom always used to call them "sun kisses" when I was little. I spent too much time at the beach and my nose would get cute little freckles. I don't actually spend time laying around in the sun here in India, and yet I've collected more "sun kisses" on my arms, shoulders, and legs in one year here than the past 3 years in SF combined. All I can say is the sun here is intense, I am just very happy my daily face lotion has SPF 95 in it or I might come back home looking 5 years older!!

'Being Indian' - Pavan K. Varma

2010-05-01T00:41:00.000-07:00

We recently had some visitors to our school from France. Over the last weekend we showed them around Pune, including inviting them for a swim at the pool. While laying out in a lounge chair enjoying the Indian sun I pulled out my latest read, 'Being Indian' by Pavan Varma.

The French guy to my right says, "Wow you're American, and you read? That's a rare sight." I wanted to slap him for saying that. Not that I care that people stereotype Americans, it happens. I try not to stereotype Indians but of course I am guilty of generalizations as much as the next person.

Anyway, speaking of generalizations! The first chapter of this book annoyed me. It was reading like another big 'pat on the back' to Incredible India, or as Remi calls 'masturbation of the ego'. This attitude is so common here that it can really piss you off. The complete lie Bollywood sells with almost every movie it makes (always the most fair skinned Indians dancing on clean streets or driving fancy cars on empty roads), to a simple drink commercial showing young kids shopping at a mall. Though these commercials are geared towards all of India (because yes, even slum dwellers manage to sneak electricity for their tiny TVs) they still paint a picture that I wouldn't call accurate for the "middle class" Indian. This is not what India looks like at all. The only real and widely seen movie that paints India accurately would have to be 'Slumdog Millionaire'. And if you ask any affluent Indian what they thought of this movie they'll tell you "It's all wrong", "India isn't like that", blah blah. Wake up call to all you Indians, Yes! This is what your country looks like! Which comes back to my point, India and especially young India, views itself falsely. They have this idea they cling to of becoming the next 'super power', (which I've already voiced my opinion on in another post), they believe this so blindly that they ignore all the huge issues still plaguing their country. As if it doesn't exist. They seriously believe in the fairytale they've conjured up in their minds.

This book explores some definite masturbation of the Indian ego, but it also is sprinkled with some large doses of reality from (who can only be described as) a highly intelligent man. Though he cannot hide his unbiased opinions at times, and not all of it I agree with, he does give me huge insight into the average Indian mind. Why Indians are the way they are, how they evolved over time, and why their priorities are so darn crazy to me.

"Indians are extraordinary sensitive to the calculus of power. They consider the pursuit of power a legitimate end in itself, and display a great astuteness in adjusting to, and discovering, the focus of power. They respect the powerful, and will happily cooperate or collude with them for personal gain. In the game of power they take to factionalism and intrigue like a fish to water. Those who renounce the lure of power are worshipped, not because their examples are capable of emulation, but in sheer awe of their ability to transcend the irresistible."

- Pavan K. Varma

He also discusses how in Hinduism there is no real ultimate sins (karma yes, but sins no), which is why as a society that treasures power and status over anything else, can easily justify the means to an end. Pleasing a God does not necessarily coincide with "being a good person". They essentially want your devotion above anything else. Your offerings, your prayers, and your gratitude. Which comes back to the idea, it's not about how you make your money, so long as you make it. Deep rooted beliefs in the caste systems is still obviously in everyone's mindset (no matter what any young educated Indian might tell you). Which means you will always be trying to get ahead by any means necessary, get a job finished as cheaply as possible, in any way possible, you will get rewarded.

Obviously not all Indians are like this. And he isn't saying Indians aren't good people because they aren't "afraid of sins" either. Not his point at all,and if you read the book in detail he obviously loves India and his fellow Indians and explores much more in detail their complexities. I posted the factors in their culture that interested me most, that helped me better understand them. He poses that India is in such contrast and so unique that it cannot be compared to any other countries rise to power. I quite frankly agree. Which is why they can either succeed or fail. They're a complete wild card.

As for the "Super Power" notion, no way. Global Power, yes, definitely...but who knows when.

Sorry I haven't updated in awhile!

2010-04-28T00:28:00.000-07:00

In the meantime, the kids are all out of school. There was a two week period where all the Outreach kids as well as our Residential kids were enrolled in a "summer camp" program. Where every day they had lots of super fun activities. Like dance classes, movies, arts and crafts. It was so much fun! Especially watching them during their dance practices, they're all so talented, it's so much fun to watch. Pictured here is the nursey school kids. They are so fascinated when I come with my camera, they love to see pictures of themselves. The beauty in the middle is Gauri (5 yrs old), she's very outgoing and always is interested in what Didis have to say. She'll ask you any and every question she can think of to say in English.

But now that summer camp is over our rez kids have lots of free time on their hands. I have been waiting for these moments! Especially since the big push during exams, where we basically did non-stop studying. This free time was much needed. Now we can finally do some fun things! Tresta Didi and I have organized a poster making contest. Each one of the kids will be given a poster to decorate with whatever they want. When it's finished we're going to have them laminated and hung up in the Volunteer Apartments. Since those apartments are virtually empty and devoid of love we thought these posters would add some much needed cheer. The kids all leave Thursday for a trip to Goa. Once they're all gone Tresta and I plan to clean up the volunteer apartment and purchase a few needed items as well as hang all the new posters created by the kids.

The general theme of the posters is a sort of "welcome to AIC, thanks for coming". They all seemed really excited and Tresta and I bought some really nice markers, paints, glitter, a and amazing colored wrapping paper to use for decorations. Yesterday they spent an hour brainstorming and practising their ideas on scratch paper. Today is the day to work on the posters and Tresta and I are so excited!!! Some of them came up with some amazing ideas, even little Poonam had some really cute drawings of the sun and a mouse eating ice cream. It's going to be so cute when finished!

(I will post pics of the completed posters)

Doodling.

2010-04-15T10:18:00.000-07:00

Bored today, decided to finally crack open this box of the henna cones I'd bought nearly 4 months ago. Henna cones are what's used to apply mehendi, think of frosting a cake and it's basically the same tool.

First foot turned out really funky. I was going to just "free-hand" it. Since I was a little girl my sister, Mom, and I would use fountain pens to put designs on each others feet while we watched tv. So with this background I had decided I was competent enough to do this without any practice. However I over did it, and now my right foot looks like a hodge podge of randomness.

Second foot, which is my left (pictured here). I stencilled the design first, which was so much easier. After doing half the design my hands got a little shakey so Remi took over applying the henna. He did a really nice job and did a little free-hand towards my heel and atop the ankle.

I did my left hand myself while watching a movie on HBO. I'd found a simple enough design via google images and stencilled it first again with pen. It went pretty smoothly. When I was finished I was sort of sad. I had one botched foot, one nice foot, one nice left hand, and Remi was too annoyed to do my right hand. Since I couldn't do my right hand myself (I'm right-handed) I now I have nothing left to tattoo. And it's so much fun too!!! The more I do it the better I get. I asked Remi if he'd let me do some on him but he wasn't having it.

I plan on bringing lots of these boxes of henna cones back to California this summer. I can already tell this will be an excellent activity to do with the women in my family.

Getting things fixed in India.

2010-04-14T03:24:00.001-07:00

Not an easy task.

First of all, it's not like the guys can be there to fix problems in your apartment when you're not there. You can't leave anyone alone in your place, unlike in the U.S. where you can leave the cable guy alone to install your cable while your gone, here...you have to babysit them.

So you have be present. That always sucks. Having like 5 Indian dudes in your house staring at you is weird. On top of that they almost always smell to high heavens. I don't know why this is, but they just always do. Remi came home once after they'd been gone for nearly an hour and the apartment still stunk. We had to open all the windows (with scorching heat outside) just to flush the air out.

They don't care about your stuff whatsoever. They'll step barefoot on your leather couch, drill into your wall letting dust fly all over your couch, tv, etc. Step on your counter-tops barefoot, BAREFOOT, and leave a smell that requires mass amounts of scrubbing to get out. On top of that they've completely cracked all the paint where they've drilled and left smudge prints all over the walls they were working on.

They never quite fix anything. Everything is either a temporary fix which falls apart later or they break something else in the process of fixing what you called them for. Like for example we had a guy come to fix a tile in the kitchen that the AC installer had broke when he was installing the AC. But the tile guy not only does THE worst job glueing the tile back but he also cracks the tile next to the one he was fixing (see picture above). So now it looks even worse!

This is typical India though, Remi and I try so hard to laugh it off but it gets to a point where you literally expect shit to go wrong. Remi calls it the lottery, you never know if you'll win or lose. If something here actually goes right, as in according to plan, on time, at the cost promised, etc...you're AMAZED beyond WORDS.

I'm not trying to be rude here either, as I've mentioned before I have a love/hate relationship with India and Indian culture in general. These are one of the things I do not not like. The total lack of respect, diligence, or pride in ones job. And of course they aren't all like this, I am making a big generalization. However, my experience compiled with the same horror stories from other fellow expats had lead me to believe this is a normal thing around India.

I wonder how I will feel transitioning back into the U.S. How I much patience I will have earned through countless frustrations endured here. I am absolutely positive India has made me a better person, in its own weird freakish way.

Update on Life & Resto Review of 'Malaka Spice'

2010-04-06T09:38:00.000-07:00

I forgot to mention what I've been really up to lately. I just reread my last post and it's so all over the place. Aside from the kids exams, for the past weeks I've made a really good friend out of Tresta.

So, Tresta is a fellow volunteer here with AIC. Unlike other volunteers, but LIKE me, she lives here. She lives with her boyfriend in a nice apartment in Kaliyani Nagar. Since Tresta volunteered for AIC back in 2008 and is now back again, she has a lot of insights in how much AIC has grown and improved. She also has tons of wonderful India knowledge. Both her and her boyfriend have travelled India and her boyfriend has lived in Pune for 4 years now. They know all the best restaurants in Pune. It's so nice to have someone with this knowledge. Not the same as having an Indian friend of course (still looking for one ;p) but good enough.

In light of the fact that during the week I spend my time at AIC with her, Tresta has offered their extra guest room to me to stay in when I stay the nights in town. Even though Remi and I technically LIVE in Pune, we're actually out in Fursungi which is quite far from the downtown/fun areas. So of course I took her up on this offer, it's so much easier for me this way. So I am away from Remi 2 nights a week but he doesn't mind since he is so crazy busy with work at the moment anyway. Plus, he has always encouraged my work with AIC since day one, which I appreciate.

Just last week Tresta, her BF, and I went out to dinner at Malaka Spice (funny name because I am like 99% sure 'malaka' in Greek means 'asshole') for the first time, well first time for me, not them...they're regulars. The food is all Asian style, and by that I mean the menu is a mix up of Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Malaysian, even Indian style foods. The food was so delicious! And much needed after weeks of only Indian food. Remi was so jealous when I told him I got to eat some decent Thai food finally, and can't wait to try the restaurant out for himself. Thai and Sushi are Remi's two favorite foods. The atmosphere here is great, we ate outside (luckily I had my mosquito spray) and were brought plenty of drinks for once. Although the mixed drinks are a little weak (which all us expats agreed tend to be in India) everything else was perfect. The appetizers were so yummy, I could eat plates of these little kebabs and dumplings. I am definitely going back with Remi.

Sidenote:

As a rule I find in fancier restaurants in India you tend to get a little annoyed with the waiters. They either never bring you drinks you ask for (annoying!), they often bring you something different than what you ordered (Remi calls it the 'lottery'), or they come to your table too often and bother you with questions they should have asked the first time they took your order. They also don't hesitate to interrupt your conversations (which I hate). And they really try to push you to order more appetizers than you want and really really push desserts, even though you've kindly told them no several times already, and even when you finally say 'If I eat another bite I'll explode', they'll still pester you! You really have to put your foot down and say NOOOOOO THANK YOU!!!!

It gets old, but it's India.

~ Exam Week! ~

2010-04-04T21:30:00.000-07:00

Julia is in Italy for the week and exams have officially started for the kids at AIC. Tresta and I have been working round the clock to prepare all the kids. So far we have 4th standard covered, they all seem like they'll do fine on their upcoming SST. Pooja, our only 2nd standard received a 99% on her English exam. AMAZING to think that only a year ago she barely spoke English and now she's aceing her exams. She's been doing so well they want to bump her into 3rd standard.

Our 6th standard kids will probably do the best, they've been doing consistently well on their mock exams over the past weeks. Sanjay actually broke his wrist (playing in our cement yard) the day before his first exam. It's his writing hand too, in light of this accident his teacher decided to take an average score from all his previous exams and use it as his final score. Since it was so high, Sanjay is now officially bumped to 7th standard!!! He was so excited about this news until I told him that just because he doesn't have to take his exams doesn't mean he gets to sit around doing nothing.

Poonam, our latest addition is in dire need of some help with English. I spend as much time with her as I can lately and she's got a firm understanding of the ABCs and counting 1-20. However she needs to know more fruit/vegetable vocabulary and animals before she will be accepted into 1st standard (which is where we'd like her to go). Poonam is the hardest because she's only 6 and was basically abandoned by her parents at the Pune train station (where she'd been living when we found her). Her head is loaded with lice (which she's spread to all the other kids, hopefully not me!!! *scratches head*), she's a Waghri (same as Pooja but differen't from the other kids) which makes her slightly more of an outsider. She speaks NO English. Which is the most difficult in a house that (when Didi's and Dada's are around) speaks predominantly English. She's often feeling left out and as a result cries a lot and will be extremely naughty. We've already caught her asking neighbors for mangos, claiming we don't feed her. She's a sneaky little 6 year old.

We've paired her up with Sanjay (who really didn't like her) who will teach her more vocabulary so she'll be able to get into either kindergarten or 1st standard by next school year. A lot of work ahead of those two but it's cute seeing them study together. I've already seen Poonam's attitude improve. She finally treats study time like "school time" and she's excited to show me her book and all her knowledge after a good study session.

I've become quite fond of little Poonam, she's so skinny and her voice is so high. We call her our pixie, or fairy sometimes. This little girl is so adorable, she's going to be gorgeous when she's older. Great face and perfect white teeth (almost unheard of in the slums). She's got a bright future ahead of her and I feel so happy I get to be apart of these first vital moments in her life.

(The picture above is of our little sprite Poonam) :) Love that girl.

Fun at the Pool & Ramu's 3rd Birthday!

2010-03-28T21:19:00.000-07:00

The pictures I posted here show Sanjay going for a swim in the pool at Solaris, in Pune. And Ramu enhoying his new birthday present alongside Tushar and Kajal.

Remi and I frequent the pool regularly, it's such a nice relaxing place to go on the weekend. I knew it would be a great reward for the kids if they did well on their upcoming exams. Tends to happen everywhere I go these days, "I wonder what the kids would think of this?", "The kids would LOVE this!", etc. Having trips like these as rewards for good grades or behaviour is the best tool we have. It adds to their motivation. For this trip we only took the three winners who did the best on their "mock" exams. We knew their great time will then spread like wild fire to the other kids and give them the carrot on the end of the stick that many of them need. It was a complete success, once back home they all discussed their fun at the pool. Some kids were jealous, some excited at the prospect of going next time, and some were just as excited as if they'd gone themselves. They all revelled at the photos I showed from my camera of Sanjay doing a dive, Geeta in the floaty, and Sonali in her new swim suit. Can't wait to see how this week of studying goes, I expect everyone to be at their best behaviour!

After our day of fun and sun we picked up a birthday cake for Ramu in town and also his birthday present, a new tricycle!!! He was so excited!!! After cake Kajal brought it out and his eyes totally lit up. We were worried that his feet wouldn't reach the pedals but with the help of his siblings he scoots around nicely. Ramu seemed to care little for cake or the fact it was his birthday, he just wanted to ride that tricycle!

Today is Monday and Julia (on-side director) is out of town for a week. Tresta and I are going to keep the kids in line the best we can, it's exams week so the house will be very busy with studying.

Babus / Burra Sahibs (Big Boss)

2010-03-26T00:50:00.000-07:00

I'm confused about a lot of things in India. I never really understand things like how babus can exist so openly. How so many people who claim to live in the "best country in the world" (they seriously believe that here), can allow such horrible disgusting blatant forms of corruption. Down to even the tiniest thing, for example applying for a BPL (below poverty level) card, which is supposed to be FREE cannot be obtained without slipping some rupees to the clerk who handles the forms. You think people who can't even afford a bag of rice will be able to afford the bribe money required for this form?! Obtaining birth or death certificates (also free) require bribes as well. These are only small examples, setting up a business here for a foreigner is incredibly difficult. I honestly don't see how it's worth it. The bribes, the delays, the incompetence with a lot of the workers...I wonder if they factor those things in when companies are like, "Hey, let's set up in India...it's cheap there!"

And btw, it's not that cheap any more. India's inflation rates are through the roof. Every year prices are drastically higher for not only food but even getting clothing or home items. If they don't do something about it, companies are going to be less inclined to set up shop here. Currently the only reason (aside from tapping into the new market here if your selling your products) is the fact that it's cheap.

I could go on and on with examples of civil servants (who btw, are un-sackable in this country) sit around making money by doing nothing. Roads remain unfixed, irrigation goes to rich farmers only, electricity remains shut off in most of the rural areas. The list goes on and on...

What irks me most about all of this, is their total lack of shame, they're not even trying to hide their love of money here. I've been asked for money to park in lots that are free, I've been told I need pay to see the man in charge of the FRO (foreigners/visas) which is supposed to be FREE, or sometimes just pay a cop that stops you for no reason who will make up a reason to get some of your money.

It's all accepted here as perfectly OK.

I know every country has it's problems, I'm not saying the US isn't loaded with it's fair share of corruption. Of course it exists everywhere, but getting caught means jail in the US. You know, ...cuz it's like, BAD to take money that's not yours. So you hide the fact you do it. But here it's like, whatever...everyone does it, who cares? India has so many problems and so much corruption I just don't see them becoming a world power any time soon. If you cannot even fix simple problems like INFRASTRUCTURE how do you expect to be a world power in the next 10 years? If you cannot supply your people with drinking water (a project India promised would be finished back in the 1970's), or even basic food and sanitation...what...the...heck?! How do you see yourself as a world power? It's like almost a joke to me and if anyone has ever been here you'd laugh too.

If you look back on India from Gandhi's day (1940's) until mid 90's, almost nothing had changed. It would look relatively the same. Only in the 90's with their IT and knowledge of English (thanks to the Brits) is India even remotely competitive with China. Even with all their natural resources, knowledge, and wealth they cannot handle simple things like enforcing traffic laws, fixing pot holes in a road, or supplying electricity. All the new buildings and construction going on are still under this old mentality of "it's good enough" (sort of like an Indian standard) they don't have any desire for perfection here. There are no building codes and electrical safety checks...and even if there was, you could just bribe your way out of it anyway. They honestly don't believe in buying expensive quality building materials or hiring professional skilled electricians. Why do that when you can hire cheap and buy cheap? Who cares if a brand new apartment building is falling apart in 2 years? As long as it's up. Honestly, I just don't foresee this "next world power" idea happening for India for a long time. If I were to guess, definitely not for (at least) another 40-50 years.

And what really cracks me up, is if you view some videos on youtube of people's India vacations. They show you India, they aren't showing you anything in particular, just...India. All the comments on these videos sing the same old song, "Why do foreigners always show the poor parts of India? Always giving us a bad name." HA. So laughable. Everywhere you go in India looks the same, there is no "nice areas" here. Everywhere there are stalls, dirt, cows, people, rickshaws blowing smog in your face, beggers, poor people, shoeless children, people going to the bathroom, and loads of trash. It's like the young rich India is in denial that this is how their country looks. They're fooled by their own Bollywood films or TV commercials. Like that is what life is REALLY like here! It's so bizarre. They've either never been outside of India or they live in some fantasy land.

Back to becoming a "world power" idea. There is so much culturally they'd have to change, and they just don't want to give up their deep rooted superstitions, ideas on castes, communalism, and this sort of idea that some how an Indian with wealth is better than a villager. Until they see all their own people as worthy, as humans, as their fellow Indians...they will never fix any problems. Because the root of their problems is not only their severe corruption but their high opinions of themselves (those who make money versus those who don't).

Sorry for the long complaining post. But sometimes this just builds up inside me, working with the kids from tribes that are (even to this day) literally spat on, takes it's toll on my spirits. Being in the slums, seeing all the injustices, it's just enough to make you want to scream sometimes. HOW CAN PEOPLE WALK AROUND SPENDING LOADS OF MONEY ON FANCY CLOTHES AND JEWELRY WHEN PEOPLE DON'T EVEN HAVE WATER TO DRINK???

WHAT THE F***!?!

"Mother of All College Festivals" -DSK

2010-03-21T06:01:00.000-07:00

This weekend was a special festival the school put on. Mostly to sort of put the name of the school out there (since it's still only in it's second year) and attract new students. It's going on right now as I type. There has been music going since 11am this morning. It's a two day event and yesterday they had a lot of music, games, some equivalent of a bouncy house but made for soccer, and other random things. All night they had a really famous rock band play until 11pm. It was so loud I couldn't watch tv at night. Today was mainly paint-ball. Pictured above is Remi and his team, I believe Remi won both matches he played. He is always so calm and methodical when he plays, he also has deadly accuracy with fire arms, it's scary. I would have played, I do love paint-ball. But it's was already scorching hot outside (around 100 degrees), and the idea of putting on these smelly suits that the stinky male students had already been sweating in all day really deterred me. It was so hot that just standing outside watching them for 20 minutes and I was ready to come in. When I finally came back to the AC in our apartment I checked my face in the mirror and it was bright red and hot to the touch.

Yeah so...something you might not know, India is HOT. Hehe.

~ Holi Festival 2010 ~

2010-03-05T00:12:00.000-08:00

Holi is a Hindu holiday in India lasting three days, though some people say a week. Now, if you ask the average Indian here what Holi is about, you'll get mixed responses. I think most don't really know, they call it the "Festival of Colors" and that's about it. In fact, I had a Muslim once tell me it's not even a Hindu holiday, that it's just a day of "fun" with colors, which is why sometimes you can find Muslims playing. Since I couldn't seem to get a straight response out of anyone I researched it myself.

The main day, Holi, also known as Dhuli Vandana in Sanskrit,also Dhulheti, Dhulandi or Dhulendi, is celebrated by people throwing coloured powder and coloured water at each other. Bonfires are lit the day before, also known as Holika Dahan (burning of Holika) or Chhoti Holi (little Holi). The bonfires are lit in memory of the miraculous escape that young Prahlad accomplished when Demoness Holika, sister ofHiranyakashipu, carried him into the fire. Holika was burnt but Prahlad, a staunch devotee of god Vishnu, escaped without any injuries due to his unshakable devotion.

So in fact, it is a Hindu holiday. I started out on the campus here, the students weren't allowed the day off (which they were super pissed about), weird since most of Inida gets t he day off. However, Remi and I knew they'd find ways to play Holi somehow, so Remi made sure to wear an older dark shirt with an old pair of jeans. As expected, during the students lunch break Holi broke out. I watched from my apartment as they ran around dousing each other in water and powder. Eventually they turned on a water spout that sprayed water 30 feet in the air! The French students participated and it looked like they were having an awesome time. I would have joined them but my driver was arriving to take me to my Holi celebration at AIC. If I was wet with colored dyes all over me I doubt he'd let me in the car.

I wore one of Remi's old T-shirts with a pair of black leggings. The kids had already spent the morning playing Holi and had showered. They planned on restarting after lunch. Julia (on-site director) was already recovering from her serious scrubbing. All the kids were so happy and excited, except Kajal who made it abundantly clear she was NOT playing Holi after lunch. She was worried her hands would stain and they're not allowed to have any color on their hands at school.

After lunch the real mayhem began. What started with water guns quickly turned into large buckets of water, and then the powder broke out, smearing all over faces, rubbing in hair, sprinkling, dabbing, throwing, pouring...etc. After we were thoroughly covered we sat around in the sun to try and dry ourselves. Being soaking wet in India can still be pretty cold. After a mini break the water balloons began, the kids went crazy filling up the balloons and once all were filled launched an attack. I was pegged a couple times by Aakash and Tushar, they seemed to have the most vigor and accurancy.

Once we covered Simba (the dog) in color we were finally finished. I followed Nikita to the volunteer apartment for a shower. Most of the color however would not budge from anywhere. It stained my hair pink, my face had blue, yellow, and green and my arms and neck were purple and yellow. Luckily for me, Holi is a huge holiday so having stained skin or hair is acceptable for a few days. :)

I'll be digesting this meal for the next few days...

2010-02-27T10:31:00.000-08:00

Just got back from the Westin Hotel (newly opened) in Koregaon Park, Pune. Since I've been here I'd noticed this monstrocity of a hotel in it's contruction phase. Massive gray modern building along the river near Kalyani Nagar. I'd drive by it almost every day wondering when it's completion date would arrive. WELL...it opened about two months ago, and only now have Remi and I gotten the opporunity to try it out.

Fantastic architecture! Very sleek, perhaps a tad cold, exterior, the inside however is much warmer. Tight security (Mary likey in light of the recent bombing event here in Pune), modern art lining the lobby, the elevators saturate your eyes with a shiny metallic golden floral wall decor, and the restaurants...OMG, must be like five or so just within the hotel itself.

The restaurant we ate at was called "Seasonal Tastes" (pictured above) and it was buffet style (came highly recommended to us by Remi's collegues). We went with our friends Charlotte and Guillaume, who happened to have two friends visiting from France.

The food was wonderful (for a buffet) included a lot of Asian foods, ahem, SUSHI!!!! Woot! We were thoroughly stuffed by dessert time. Desserts (which anyone who knows me knows is my FAVORITE course) were plentiful, along with an extensive cheese selection (which the French loved) they had ice creams, crème brulee, tiramisu, trifle, beetroot cake, fruit tarts, pistaschio bars, apple crumble, chocolate gateaux, mousses, Indian puddings, cookies, chocolates, plus every fruit under the sun drizzled with your choice of chocolate syrup or caramel. It was a relative dessert-lovers heaven.

After a massive overload of sweets + wine I was yawning and ready to pass out. They did bring us some coffee, which I managed to gulp down to waken myself back up.

In total, the buffet was 800 rupees per person (around $18.00)! Though this is still cheap for this class of buffet, still a tad pricey by Indian standards.

Oh, and my only complaint...the drinks took FOREVER. Just bringing us a glass of wine (which was overpriced) took around 20 minutes. I don't know why this was, but they could have made lot more money off of us if they were a bit more attentive with the alcohol. I mean, I ended up having 1 Bellini and 1 glass of wine (and the wine was all my own effort in flagging him down), but had the waiter been around more to offer a refill in a timely manner, I probably would have had 3-4 glasses easy.

Either way, Remi and I love this place and we will be back to try out the other restaurants. They have an Italian one (a bit pricey) which had waiters dressed up as Italian clowns (complete with face makeup, no joke), it was truly bizarre.

Owie, OK my tummy is too full to sit in this chair anymore, time to lay down...

Foamy Mouth = Bad Doggy.

2010-02-22T11:10:00.000-08:00

"India has been reported as having the highest rate of human rabies in the world, primarily because of stray dogs." -Wikipedia

Glad I had my rabies vaccine before coming here. We have like 11 stray dogs -plus puppies- living on campus. These aren't the same strays you see in the states, oh hells no. We're talking like WILD dogs here. Like Animal Planet, Discovery Channel type wild. Occasionally in town you find some semi-friendly, but for the most part they're very scared of humans, and rightfully so. Most people consider them pests and will beat on them and chase them away. But at night they tend to gather together and form packs, these packs can be quite dangerous. I've seen a pack chase a little girl on a bike before...she got away unharmed, but was scary to witness. It's for this reason I know my Mom would never like India. She's an animal lover and it would kill here to see all the animals in pain here. It's quite shocking to see and very very VERY hard to ignore.

(*1 lakh = 100k)

Yoga in India.

2010-02-21T20:49:00.000-08:00

I've started a creative writing class and yoga class. Both started last week. I picked up some new yoga mats for both Remi and I, yep it's true, Remi is taking his first yoga class ever!

The yoga was fantastic, I've felt like such a bump on a log lately, it really was needed. The teacher was great, a true yoga master. Unlike all the ones I found in San Francisco who have morphed their classes to suit Americans. Many teachers in San Francisco use yoga as almost an aerobics class, moving from pose to pose too quickly just to make sweat and feel like you "got your moneys worth". I found it hard to perfect my poses and really notice my breathing in any of those classes. I find relaxing yoga much more satisfying for me physically and mentally. Our teacher here was seriously into aryuveda, and after class taught us a little about the main principles. Aryuveda doesn't really interest me much, I don't think classifying peoples bodies into only three categories is very accurate. But he was a great teacher, he took his time to watch his students and align poses that were flawed. He stressed the importance of not straining your body, not to pull muscles, to listen to your body. A belief that is quite opposite in the U.S., where if your not pushing your limits your not learning, so to speak. I always hated that belief! I really liked this style of yoga, focusing more on breathing, and holding poses for longer periods of time. Though I couldn't help but giggle at a lot of his mantras converted to English, especially at the end of class during "meditative sleep", he was trying to relax our minds by giving us soothing relaxing words. His accent was so hilarious though I really had to focus to keep from smiling.

"Tink of your body...*long pause*... as a gatevay to da mind.

I wasn't the only one, I peered over at Remi and he was smiling. Remi was really glad he came, he's has had a lot of back problems lately from working too long in front of the computer. Also, he has really bad posture, he is always hunkered over. I told him yoga would really help with his back, and he did feel a lot better afterwards. He has zero flexibility, I've never seen anyone as rigid as Remi before. I think he will benefit greatly from this class.

The class had such an effect on a lot of us here on campus that we had trouble sleeping that night. Some say they think it was because the class gave them so much energy, but other people heard that yoga can release toxins in your body and that they can agitate, preventing sleep. Who knows, but I'm really excited for round two!

Shaniwar Wada, Pune

2010-02-17T04:00:00.000-08:00

"Shaniwarwada (Marathi: शनिवारवाडा) is a palace fort in the city of Pune in western Maharashtra, India. It covers six and a quarter acres in central Pune. It was constructed in 1732 as the seat of the Peshwa(prime ministers of the Maratha Empire), and remained the political capital of the Empire until its annihilation. The fort itself was largely destroyed in 1828 by an unexplained fire, but the surviving structures are now maintained as a tourist and archaeological site." -Wikipedia

Remi and I visited this fort for the first time a few weeks ago, it's located in the heart of Pune. We haven't seen much in Pune actually, surprising I know. Aside from this fort and a Ganesh Temple on the outskirts of Pune, we've pretty much worked every day since we've been here. Not that we don't want to do a little sight-seeing, because we really do. It's just that Remi is so busy with school and it's hard to arrange it all. We're definitely putting forth more of an effort to see stuff every weekend. I have been putting a lot of effort into our upcoming vacation to Nepal. Remi really wants to add Tibet to our vacation, I'm trying to squeeze it in but it's a heck of a lot more hassle to go from Kathmandu to Tibet. Not only is Tibet surprisingly expensive, but you require a tourist Visa to enter China, which means even though you can take a bus from Nepal to Lhasa, they will check your passport at the border. So basically it's a lot more money if we decide to go to Tibet as well. However Remi looks at this as a golden opportunity, if we're in Nepal anyway, might as well check out Tibet too? Either way, we really need to get out of our apartment more and start exploring, we've been here half a year already and we've barely seen a thing! That is all about to change though!

Pune Terror Attack.

2010-02-13T22:33:00.000-08:00

It feels a little weird to be writing about this since never in my life have I experienced something hitting this close to home.

Just last night around 7:30pm a bomb went off at the German Bakery (pictured here pre-attack) in Koregaon Park here in Pune. It's strange on so many levels, but mostly because everyone knows this bakery. It's not just a bakery, they serve coffee, chai, and organic health food. It's famous in Pune, it's right next to the Osho Ashram and is always filled with foreigners in their maroon robes. This was the first place I met Julia (the AIC on-site Director), faculty from campus and students go here to hangout, it's a hot spot that's been in Pune for years. We heard the news last night, Tom (colleague of Remi's here on campus) called us to make sure we were OK, he was in town and saw all the streets closed off and fire trucks. Luckily, no one from school or AIC were involved.

The weirdest thing though was the fact Remi and I were there today, only a mere two hours prior to the blast. We were in town running errands, had some lunch at Hard Rock Cafe, then before we headed home we'd ask our driver where we could go to get an extra key made for our apartment. He took us to a vendor on the street, right on the corner of the German Bakery, near the Osho Ashram. Lots of vendors sell stuff here since there is a lot of tourists. We sat in the car waiting for the key to be made, I made a comment while staring at the Bakery, "That place is always packed with Osho people." We watched as so many of them walked by us in their prayer robes.

Once Tom called us I turned on the news channel, both Remi and I were silent for about 5 minutes while our eyes were glued to the news coverage. The reporters saying it was targeted because of it's "popularity with foreigners". The bakery sign, which we'd seen only few hours ago was completely destroyed, the building was unrecognisable, and we were at a loss for words...we just kept saying "We were just there...we were just there..."

I'm not sure if internally I am being too calm about this or blowing it out of proportion. If this was a place I'd never been to or heard of I suppose my reaction would be somewhat different. But this just hits too close to home, and the fact that we're living on an "International Campus" filled with foreigners makes us feel even more like we have a target on our back. I know you have to keep living your life, you can't be afraid of everything, but at the same time I don't want to be naive either.

This whole thing is just fucked up I tell you (sorry for the language).

(Click here for related news article)

The Neighborhood Rascals.

2010-02-12T01:44:00.000-08:00

This is a picture of the front yard of the AIC residential house. Whenever I pull up, Ramu is often the first one I see sitting in the yard, usually talking to himself. Since he is not old enough for school yet he stays home and finds ways of entertaining himself.

On this day I had stayed out front to have a little chat with him and within seconds the neighborhood kids appeared out of no where, "Didi! Didi! Hi! Hiiiiii Didi!" The gate is shut but they just climb over it. Ramu is pretty good friends with the girls and the come over regularly to play with him. They're such a bunch of rascals though, with all of them together I am quickly overrun! They immediately all want to (not just hold) but use my camera. Which is actually Remi's and it's not just a camera, it's an expensive camera. I agree to let them each take one picture though, I keep the straps around my neck and hold the base with my hands, this way I know they won't drop it. I show them where the button is to take the picture but with their tiny little hands they all have problems pushing it. They start to get a little too crazy and pushy so I shout "Tanba!", which in Marathi means "Stop!". (Though, I am not sure if my spelling is correct, could be spelt 'tamba' the N and M sounds are similar sometimes). It's always nice to know some command words in the native tongue, the kids will most likely listen better than if you had said it in English.

We have to be careful with the neighborhood kids in the yard though, they will sometimes steal our kids' toys. Most of the residential kids keep all their outdoor toys hidden so the neighborhood kids can't steal them. I don't know if the kids are really stealing or if they just run off with it accidentally. Kajal says they do it on purpose, she gets pretty peeved when she seems them in the yard without permission. Either way I pick up toys I see in the yard now, better to be safe than sorry I guess.

The Magic of Electricity.

2010-02-10T21:15:00.000-08:00

I tell you what, electricity is truly a wonder. Every day in the modern world people take it for granted. You go throughout your daily lives never giving it a moments thought. Unlike me, who (not by choice) thinks about it multiple times per day.

This picture is of our AC plug. Since we moved in here, on occasion I've heard crackling noises from this outlet and even seen some sparks, but I never thought this would happen. How scary does that look? It completely melted the outlet from the inside! I don't know what's scarier, the meltdown or the fact that if it had caught fire there is no fire extinguishers in the entire building. No joke, this is a brand new campus with not one functioning extinguisher. Of course Remi sent this email to the head of the school, so we'll see what happens from there.

I spend a lot of time in India praying to the god of electricity, (jokingly, and yet not). With a minimum of four electrical outages per day, it's important to make sure you give thanks for the times you do have it. And yes, I am totally serious.

Outages are annoying. A movie you were watching is interrupted, an email you were typing is gone, your laundry is now sitting in soapy water for the next 3 hours. Of course, not all of the outages lasts for hours, in fact most are just 5-10 minutes, but it's just enough to annoy you and remind you of how much you truly LOVE electricity. I mean really...we love it, we need it, and we don't ever really say it.

So lets all give a big thanks to electricity, be grateful you get uninterrupted service, be thankful for safety codes and building inspectors (that cannot be bribed), and the genuine feeling of trust and carefree security that comes with the flick of a light switch. For that is a truly wonderful thing to have.

*Update: Good news! After another reminder from Remi the school sent over an electrician to fix our plugs. In light of this problem, Umesh (the school director) is having a meeting with all the heads of departments to discuss the plans for evacuations in case of emergencies, where new fire extinguishers will be located, and also to schedule a walk-through of all the apartments on campus to test the outlets. Wowie!!

Weekend getaway in Lonavala.

2010-02-10T03:57:00.000-08:00

I meant to write this sooner regarding our weekend. But I've had issues uploading the photos and I really wanted to post a slide show of Lonavala. The internet here is such poop, we have no issues downloading, but uploading even just three pictures can take twenty minutes! ><;

The weekend began as a surprise from Remi, I didn't know where we were going until the day before which was so exciting! We both just wanted to get out of Pune for awhile, it was time. He'd heard about a hotel called Dukes Retreat in Khandala that was recommended by colleagues. It sits high on a cliff in the countryside, has aryurvedic massages, swimming pool, and a tasty restaurant. To give you an idea of where these places are on a map, Lonavala and Khandala are inbetween Mumbai and Pune.

The hotel was nice, was not as fancy as we'd thought it would be, and perhaps a tad too rustic for my tastes. Also, I was SO excited to be able to swim! I was majorly disappointed to see the pool located in the most precarious spot, right in front of the outside dining area to the hotel restaurant. So while you swim you're on display to all the patrons eating lunch. Which, in any other country I couldn't care less. India is a different story, I suffer from non-stop stare-a-thons, and when wearing a bikini it just feels weird to be gawked at endlessly. Plus we were the only foreigners at the hotel and there were no women in the pool. I told Remi I couldn't do it, and he understood. We instead decided to sunbath on our private outdoor porch, which sadly still had a gardener who was ogling me the entire time. I tolerated it, *sigh* story of my life here.

Aside from sunbathing everyday, we did visit a lot of the popular tourist attractions. I want to mention this first though, Lonavala gave me renewed energy and actually let me see a different side to India. For the most part it was clean, which is a huge contrast to Mumbai or Pune. The difference is evident the minute to pull off the Mumabi express way, clean stores, clean streets, and less beggars. The people here care about their town, you could see it. Aside from the cleanliness of it, I couldn't put my finger one what exactly made me feel so good here, why I felt so darn happy. On my second day I realized it, less people. You haven't seen a crowd till you've seen India. People are everywhere, all the time, in your face. Which you might not think is a big deal at first, I mean...I didn't even realize how much I didn't like it until I was in Lonavala. Just long stretches of empty country road with nothing but a mahout and his elephant. I was glowing entire trip. It was so peaceful and rejuvenating that I didn't want to leave.

I also got to see my first wild monkeys in India! Yes, it's true! We came upon a fort atop this giant cliff, and all around us were monkeys! It took me awhile to realize we were surrounded, they were in the trees, on the ground, and even chilling in park benches. Since monkeys are revered in India (Thanks to Hanuman the Hindu monkey god) people come to pay respects and feed them treats like coconuts, corn, and the occasional beer. I kid you not, they drink beer. Whether by accident or on purpose, these monkeys do drink beer, Remi even snagged a picture of one holding an empty Kingfisher can. The trip was already awesome, but seeing those makaks at the end of the trip totally made my day.

So with all the lovely dovey stuff aside. I have only a few gripes.

The picture I attached above is of Karla Caves in Khandala (close to Lonavala). The whole cave is covered with Buddhist carvings, dating back to around 160 B.C. They were beautiful. However, the ugliest part of the whole ordeal was the vandalism, ancient caves like these should be preserved, but lots of statues had peoples names carved into them, can you believe it?! It royally ticked me off to see that. Oh on top of that - A Hindu temple was built recently right in front of the cave entrance...literally IN front of it. (see photo of cave enterance) Tourists come to see the Buddhist carvings dating back to B.C., and instead are forced to walk around this garish temple that looks completely out of place amongst such antiquity. They call it "encroachment" here and it's apparently common practice to place Hindu objects in front ancient Buddhist temples or statues. I find it kinda rude if you ask me.

New ad campaign by India to discourage mistreatment of it's historical monuments, I literally saw this commercial right after I wrote this, which prompted me to find it on YouTube and post it with my entry.

My last gripe I swear...

The whole "white" entrance fee thing, which for Karala Caves was 100 rupees ($2.15) versus the Indian price of 5 rupees(10cents), which is also common here. It is completely racist if you ask me. I know of no other country that can get away with having signs in front of tourist attractions labelling different prices like that. In India's desire to make money off of tourists (who are already IN the country spending their money anyway) they do nothing but hurt their image in my opinion, it bothers me every time I see those frickin' signs and I know I'm not the only ones who finds this offensive.

You may say, "But Mary, everything in India is so cheap anyway, what difference is 100 rupees to you? Who cares?" That's not the point, whether I can pay the price or not, it's that I am in India and I should have the same price as any one else here. You might also think, "But perhaps it's a good thing, it makes the attractions more affordable to regular Indians so they can appreciate museums and art too." It's not that they make the price more affordable, that is the price, I am the only one paying ten times that. It would be like posting a sign in front of Disneyland saying "$5 for U.S. citizens, $50 for foreigners" and most tourists are Indian here anyway. Remi and I were the only white people at the caves the day we went, the only ones who had to pay the special price.

I know it sounds silly to be annoyed about that, but when you live here your perspective is different than that of a carefree traveller on fun Indian vacation. I have to deal with this inequality everywhere I go here. Trust me, it gets old.

Top 5 Reasons Why I Love Japan.

2010-02-07T20:37:00.001-08:00

I know this is a tad off subject since I am in India and this is my "India blog." But in researching India, I find many blogs or sites claiming their unwavering love for India. Many of them calling India their "soul culture".

Which got me thinking, there is only one place (so far) in the world where I feel that way, and it's Japan. When I go to Japan I feel like I am coming home. I feel a happiness, a tranquillity, and a genuine love. When returning home to California, I also feel happy, but it doesn't compare to the comfort Japan brings me. In fact, my old roommate in SF once told me, "Mary, deep down inside I picture you a teenage Japanese girl." I laughed, because it's so true!

Before you read my list, I want to say this: I'm not going to go into details on all the BAD things Japan has done. I am not taking into account government policies or decisions made in the past. I am talking in a general sense, my personal experiences, human to human, place to place.

Top 5

1) The people. Japanese people are wonderful, polite, conscientious, and compassionate. I would dare say they have probably the highest integrity you'll find out of any culture. We're talking the same society that produced the samurai here, they have a deep rooted desire to follow a code of conduct for the soul. So often I have been helped when looking confused in the subways of Tokyo and many Japanese people will go out of their way to guide you in the right direction...without even being asked. This type of kindness can be found everywhere, even at lower level jobs. A clerk running a AMPM Store will offer you high quality service, he will smile and remain professional. In Japanese culture, you're encouraged to take pride in your work, it is a reflection of your inner self. For them, it's not what job you have but how you do it that earns respect.

2) Cleanliness. Again, this comes back to the people. They care and respect their environment, their homes, and their cities. These are reflections of them as well. Every day you'll see little old ladies washing their shop windows or sweeping their front steps. Even the younger generation doesn't drop trash on the ground, you will rarely find litter anywhere in Japan, even their largest cities are almost spotless. They don't tag their subways with permanent markers, nor do they scratch their names on the windows. Their subway rides are peaceful with most people sitting quietly reading or texting. I love this, I truly do. Though most people may find the colorful rides of the Muni in San Francisco fun and exciting, after taking the 19 every day to work with crackheads, I would have given anything for even just one peaceful ride like the ones in Tokyo. To be able to read a book or listen to music without being harassed, heck...I'd love to have one ride without the rancid smells.

3) Future Tech. Well, not much needs to be said in this regard except that any country that as a whole, cares about the latest Square Enix release is the country for me! They immerse themselves in it. Posting ads in every subway station, dominating the Tokyo skyscrapers with enormous posters, even selling a popular drink named after it. Japan understands where the future is headed because they're the ones dragging everyone else (sometimes kicking and screaming) behind them. Video games in Japan are looked at as they should be...not just some toy for kids, geeks, or teenage males, but the very future of entertainment as we know it.

4) Food. I once had an Indian driver tell me he had a man he was driving offer to take him to a sushi restaurant. I would say it's safe to assume 90% of India has never had Japanese food, so to him it was a big deal. I asked him how he liked it, he scoffed and said "Oh it was so bad! The taste was so boring! I did not like it." In India, where nothing is even tasted unless it burns your lips for a good while afterwards, I can understand why he would feel this way. To those not accustomed to Japanese food, they may feel the same with their first sushi encounter. For me, coming from San Francisco where sushi is on every corner, it's important to remember not everyone has this luxury. Sushi is a subtle flavor, it is an art form to make, and when you begin to distinguish the flavors you begin to understand it better. Sushi is only the beginning though, there are so many flavors of Japan, it's many different regions, specialities, and ancestry are what make their food so amazing. Again it comes back in taking pride in preparations, the use of high quality ingredients, and never cutting corners.

5) The cutness factor. Last but not least, the cuteness. Japan's culture embraces without fear everything that is cute. Charms on your cellphone, collectable toys, hair clips, purses, shoes, T-shirts, earrings, necklaces, dog leashes, shoe laces, fake nails, sun glasses, hoodies with animal ears...you name it and they have it cute x1000. Even their musicians are done up to be either sexy or cute, or cute-sexy. The songs may even on occasion be about cute things. Their ads are cute, with cute logos of animals or a cute little song. Their children's cartoons are oozing with cuteness that as an adult you can't help but sometimes watch. Most television shows include cute stuff, talk shows or game shows are filled with something that makes you gasp "Awww, that's so cute!" Heck, even their subway warning signs ("Do not lean against the door") are done up with a cute mascot.

If that doesn't sell you on Japan, I don't know what will. :)

Now, you might look at some of the things I have mentioned as a little material or downright silly but that is ME, Japan fits me, it's where I belong, and I would live there if they'd let me!

Perhaps westerners who fall in love with India are more spiritual than me, I don't know. India is hard, and it can break your heart every day if you let it. I am very sensitive, seeing all these issues and knowing that politicians here pocket most of the money meant for city improvements is disheartening. Though India is growing up fast, they're still stuck in ancient ways, too many taboos, too much corruption, and way too much communalism which holds them back. They can keep building malls and setting up Prada stores all they want...but they aren't fixing the real issues here, and that bothers me.

Maps are not toys!

2010-02-01T23:21:00.001-08:00

Occasionally when homework is completed early some of the kids begin what can only be described as "crazy time." Running around chasing each other, bothering kids still studying, finding something to play with that they're not supposed too. This craziness is short lived, volunteers quickly assemble activities to focus them and hopefully get some more learning in (sneaky style of course).

During one such moment I caught Ashish running around like a mad man with a map of Pune he'd found (who knows where). I managed to snag him as he bolted by me and I took the map back. I sat him down and laid the map out on the floor, and I asked him if he knew where we were in Pune. I was surprised at how quickly he focused and began reading every English word on the map to himself in an attempt to find Yerwada (where the center is located). He actually knew we were in Yerwada, which amazed me. He couldn't have been but six years old and there are hundreds of neighborhoods on this map. I felt a little bad when I finally found us on the map, spelt Yarvoeda. I knew Ashish wouldn't be able to find us, signs here in India call this area Yerwada, but English maps sometimes spell things differently. After some time went by I eventually pointed it out and we began going over other things of interest on the map. The golf courses, down town Pune, Koregaon Park, nearby schools, temples, etc. A crowd quickly formed around us as they all took an interest in the map of their home. When it was finally time to go, Ashish picked up the map and folded it gently together. He handed it to me and asked if I could hang it up in the classroom, I smiled and told him I would.

In a mere 10 minutes I had turned what was once a meaningless giant piece of toy paper into something of great importance and significance to them. Which just further proves what I've already learned here, it's all about the little moments.

Finding My Zen in 2010.

2010-01-28T09:56:00.000-08:00

This is Yogi Master Santosh, one of the kids in the AIC residential program. During a study session on the roof the other day he busted out some yoga poses to absolute perfection, definitely put my poses to shame! He told me they get to practice yoga at school, how cool is that? When you think about it, of course they do, why wouldn't they? But it didn't stop me from wishing my school had yoga when I was kid.

On a related topic, since I have started working with Ashraya Initiative for Children here in Pune, I've spent a lot of time just adjusting to the craziness of AIC. Trying to find where I could most fit in, where I am most useful. Most of the volunteers live in an apartment near the residential house. So they tend to be always available to the kids. Due to my distance from town, unreliable drivers, and all the general hassles that came with moving to India...I have not had the amount of time with the kids that I would have liked too. BUT, that all changes now. Since I finally settled in India and have a reliable car and driver on my hands I am hoping to spend a lot more time in the residential house/outreach center and a lot less time at home.

The new year has literally brought a new year for me here in India, and I don't want to waste a moment of it. There is so much I want to do here. So much. . .

My Current Read: In Spite of the Gods

2010-01-26T20:24:00.000-08:00

"To a western observer our civilization appears as all metaphysics, as to a deaf man piano playing appears to be mere movements of fingers and no music."
-Rabindranath Tagore, Indian poet.

I could not agree more with this statement. I've been in India for nearly 6 months and every month, every week, every day, my attitude changes. Just when I feel I have grasped onto an idea, formulated an opinion, or felt a genuine understanding...it tends to all fall apart. Every person I meet gives me a new outlook, and every place I visit gives me a larger sense of the complexities of their culture. I bought this book when I first moved here because I found it to be a unbiased look into India's history and cultural background. After all, if I am going to live here, I should probably know a little about it, right?

The writer, Edward Luce is English, and spent a large portion of his life living in India. He interviewed numerous politicians, entrepreneurs, manufacturers, mothers, children, businessmen, expats, priests, and pretty much any one wandering India. Which is why I enjoy his stories so much, each one is so different and each one leaves you with a greater understanding. Sure, I could pick up a giant history book on India, going into detailed accounts of every war and every victory. But I find that yes, historical facts interest me, but their relation to the rest of the world is what fascinates me most.

I am only about half way through and it has definitely given me some perspective on India, it's worth a read.

Anniversary in Pune!

2010-01-24T23:03:00.000-08:00

Remi and I finally dined at the infamous Stone Water Grill, one of the fanciest restaurants in Pune. It's right next to the Hard Rock Cafe (Yes, there is a Hard Rock Cafe in Pune!). Whenever Remi and I get really desperate for some beef we have a delicious hamburger at the Hard Rock Cafe. We'd seen this amazingly clean and modern looking restaurant/bar next door and wanted to try it out sometime, we found out from Remi's fellow French colleagues it was the Stone Water Grill. They had nothing but wonderful things to say about it, so since it was our 3 year anniversary last Saturday, we finally decided to check it out.

The ambiance of this place is so soothing and relaxing. Soft lighting, candles everywhere, a very light oil burner, modern bar outside connected to the classy restaurant inside. The staff of course waited on us hand and foot, as they typically do anywhere in India. Everything about this place was excellent, including the price! I was surprised at how cheap it was, Remi's Baked Lobster was only (if I remember right) 400 rupees and my Jerked Norwegian Salmon was around 350 rupees. We had some pan fried stuffed calamari with prawns in a thick buttery herb sauce for an appetizer and a bottle of white wine from my home state of California!

It made for a wonderful anniversary dinner. We were all smiles the whole time and can't wait to go back and try some other dishes. Remi heard that the Steak there is amaizng too, so that's next on the list. All in all, the entire experience was fantastic. We have eaten at only a few highly rated restaurants since we've been here but this was definitely our favorite one so far.

Reliability in India.

2010-01-21T01:58:00.001-08:00

This is something you must learn to live with if you move here. Which, in it's own way can be looked at as a blessing or annoyance. Typically, it's is annoyance (I'll explain the blessing part later). For example when I need to go grocery shopping and the driver hasn't arrived. Not only has he not arrived on time but he actually won't arrive at all. On top of that I won't get any warning or notification. So I sit at home twiddling my thumbs waiting for a car that never comes. *sigh*

Yes, it's frustrating. There is not much you can really depend on here and as an American this is a difficult thing to adjust too. You may not think it's much now, but when you're here you realize how much you take that reliability in the western world for granted.

So you may be wondering about the previously mentioned "blessing" in all this. Well, if you learn anything while you're here in India, it's patience. As Americans we have zero patience, and that is a fact. We want everything done yesterday and expect 24 hour service and live by the "the customers always right" mentality. There is a certain amount of general trust and guarantees that come along with business transactions. But seriously, leave all those expectations behind. Nothing happens the way it's supposed to here. We couldn't even get our bank account open for the first three months because the Indian governmental department in charge of foreigners in India (FRO) was never open to stamp our official paperwork, and you can't open a bank account without these stamps! Even just getting our apartment set-up took months. Simple things like getting the dishwasher installed, TV hooked up, furniture delivered. Everything will take longer than it should. Promises get made and they're just as easily broken. Even if the guy promises you to your face with a nod of the head and a "Yes Ma'am, delivery on Friday" it means nothing and if it does come on Friday, than lucky you! But if it doesn't, just take a deep breath and remember these words, "c'est la vie"

That is my mantra here, and it's helped me a lot. ;)

Grad Day for the Womens Workshop

2010-01-20T10:57:00.000-08:00

AIC doesn't only concentrate on the children affected by the stigma of belonging to "ex-criminal tribes," but also the women. They are the key to breaking the cycle. As a result AIC has enrolled many women from our slum area into workshop classes where they can learn a trade such as incense making, tailoring, or candlestick making. Since most of them sell random stuff illegally on the streets in Pune, they run the risk of have many of their goods confiscated or stolen by police. As a result they end up with nothing and sometimes take weeks to recover from such a loss.

By offering them a real trade and a license to sell their products, we're hopefully giving them a chance to make a real living. So far the classes have been a huge success and I loved taking everyone's photo on graduation day. They were so proud and a lot of speeches were given with many a tears shed.

Awesome day.

Television is not a teacher.

2010-01-19T21:28:00.000-08:00

If anyone wants to break away from America and really see the world, India is a good start.

That said, I love my country. I grew up with a wonderful house in Orange County, California. We had a cat, I went to a top high school, I had friends of every color and background. I had a caring home with good parents and siblings. I was loved, and above all I was safe. My neighborhood was so safe I could ride my bike to the park alone when I was very young. We had things. By things I mean Nintendo, one of the first families to have a computer, or the internet, or AOL when it was first released. I had everything I needed or wanted as a growing child. I had a wonderful life and I love my country for that, I really do.

But, there comes a time where you need to leave the comfort of the good ol' U.S.A. It's almost like this cocoon we've grown up in, completely insulated from the outside world. Sure we can read about it, search the internet, watch videos, read the news. But no matter how old you get you will not never gain true wisdom by staying in one place your whole life.

It is my firm belief that to truly understand Earth, you must travel her.

What not to say at dinner...

2010-01-15T15:48:00.000-08:00

It's hard to remain normal with the work I'm doing here.

Example, last night we went to a nice restaurant with some of the Frenchies. They ask me about work, so I tell them some of what I had done the day before.

Which included taking a boy named Ganesh to the hospital for a CT scan. He had fallen off the roof of the one of the homes in his slum and hit his head pretty hard. Though he did not break any bones, he had been vomiting since the accident. So, we go to the center (Julia and I) to pickup the boy and his mother. They had never in their lives been inside a car before. My car for the day was a really nice jeep style, with leather interior, and cold air conditioner. They were both wide-eyed the entire time. His mother kept thanking me for the ride, and they both stared outside the windows with amazement. When we arrived at the clinic Julia paid for his CT scan, which was 2,000 rupees, the AIC Medical Outreach Program covers all their fees. The scan wasn't going to be ready for 30 minutes, so Julia said we should find a place to eat. We found a veg restaurant really close to the clinic. It was a nice place, and both the boy and his mother had never been to a restaurant before. It was at this time I noticed he had no shoes. Which broke my heart to see, I would never walk barefoot in India that's for sure. The streets are covered with nasty things. The owner of the restaurant came outside while we were standing reading he menu. He looked annoyed and yelled at them to move away from his steps. Julia quickly told him in Hindi that they're with us. The man looked completely shocked, but allowed us all to enter his restaurant. Ganesh, the boy, ordered Chinese noodles. He had never had noodles in his life and didn't even know what they were. He was so excited, examining everything on the table. The silverware, the folded napkins, the salt shaker. Close to us was a fish tank with some fairly large fish inside. He ran over to it and stared at it for couple minutes. He has never seen fish alive in a tank before. Once our food arrived, he went to town on his big plate of noodles. Both Julia and I had wished he'd ordered something a little healthier. After all, he only eats 1 meal a day and that's if his parents make some money that day. His Mom refused to eat a bite of the noodles, saying it's something she doesn't know (she's never had or seen before) and therefore doesn't trust. So she had ordered some dosa instead (also not very healthy). His mother kept thanking us all day, and I remember thinking how weird it was to be thanked for something that is so small to me. I mean...incredibly small. Food in India is so cheap compared to the U.S. or Europe, in total our lunch for all five of us (including chai tea) was only $20 or so. This day may have well been a trip to Disneyland for this boy and his mother. She was in her 30s, and had never been inside such a nice restaurant. Basic things that anyone in the US has done practically since birth.

Ganesh was jumping around all day with excitement. I half jokingly told Julia that I hope he doesn't think he should get hurt more often! Luckily his CT scan was fine, and he is doing well.

After explaining this to the Frenchies at dinner, I immediately regretted it. Here we are eating this delicious Italian food. Full plates we won't be able to finish, bottle of nice wine, and I am talking about a cute shoeless boy who eats 1 time a day and cherished his day eating Chinese noodles. Julia had told me later that it was probably the best day of his life. Those things crush your heart, the guilt you feel is overwhelming, and it weighed heavily on the the table. Nnobody said anything...nobody knew what to say. It was then I realized there are only certain circumstances where I can discuss my work, people want to know about it yes...but at the same time they don't. It's is sad but true.

Even though we all know this stuff goes on in the world, and yeah we feel bad about it for a moment or two, then the moment is over and we move on. After all we mostly feel helpless, like...what could we do really? You could donate right? But you never know exactly where that money goes or how much exactly goes to the children or families who really need it. So mostly, we think to ourselves "Oh that's sad", and that's it. But for me, I can no longer do that, I am here...I am in the middle of it. I can't turn it off or forget about it, these children are even in my dreams. It breaks my heart.

When my day on this earth is done, I hope I can look back at my time here in India as probably one of the only truly meaningful things I can be proud of in my entire life. A time where I was doing something that wasn't for myself.

There & Back Again - A Mary Christmas Tale

2010-01-08T01:06:00.000-08:00

First Stop: Japan (Tokyo & Yokohama from Dec.12th-21st)

In general, Remi is a wonderful travel companion, we never argue and he is so easy going. It's one of his best qualities that I try to emulate as much as possible. After some stressful months in India where we were starting to not feel like ourselves anymore, this trip to Japan snapped us right back to our usual selves. For some reason, (I've mentioned this before about Remi) he is very lucky. Remi even admits to having good luck in life and we joke about how he is our good luck charm. I feel like everything with him happens without a hitch. I know it's silly, and it's probably our belief that we're lucky that makes good things happen. But whatever we want to see, eat, or do, happens effortlessly. Every single meal we ate was fantastic, every event we attended was amazing, all our hotels were within our price range and had excellent service. We were in such cheery moods in Japan that every night our meal was accompanied by hot sake and beer. Restaurants were warm and cozy and everyone was in wonderful moods because Christmas (which they LOVE in Japan) was just around the corner. There was definitely a warm fuzzy feeling that radiated throughout our entire trip.

We both agreed it was probably our best vacation ever, beating our Christmas in Paris the previous year.

After Japan, we fly from Narita Airport in Tokyo to L.A.X. in California. We spent 1 night at my Grandma's house in Orange County with my sister, hanging out with Granny and wrapping presents was great. The next day we drove with my sister to my Mother's house in Central California, where we had Christmas. Which was absolutely wonderful, no one was sick this time, less sugary treats were made (Thank God!), and I didn't get any allergies from the cats since I had taken Zyrtec before I had even arrived.

On the 26th we drove to my Dad's in Northern California, spent a couple nights on the ranch which was super relaxing. I love being on the ranch during Christmas, they get super cold wintry weather. They have a toasty fireplace and a huge Christmas tree in the living room, the smell of pine makes me extremely nostalgic and happy.

After my Dad's we spent a week in San Francisco. Which was incredibly fun! All our friends came out to see us, we got our bellies filled with all kinds of foods we missed while in India. Delicious sushi, Chinese food, Turkish, Thai, American style hamburgers, diner style pie, and yummy coffee whenever we wanted. New Years Eve was the most fun, especially since we celebrated Remi's birthday (January 1st) with a huge chocolate truffle cake from Tartine Bakery. Our friends in S.F. are so loving and so appreciative of who they have in their lives and who they call "friend". Both Remi and I have some serious history with a lot of them. It felt like a homecoming party being there with them again.

It was such a good time to be there, I am glad I got to see my city at Christmas time, cold weather, jackets, Christmas music in Union square, warm drinks, cozy bars. I love my city! SF will always be my home, it's the only place I never grow sick of, which says a lot.

Back In Pune now, been home for about a week. Uploading pictures, getting over jetlag, and also diving right into AIC work. The past month felt like such a weird long wonderful dream!

Indian Style 'Jingle Bells' - Sooooo cute!

2009-12-10T13:03:00.000-08:00

~ Mehndi ! ~

2009-12-05T22:33:00.000-08:00

Pauline's mehndi from Hindu wedding.

My mehndi from wedding !

My Diwali 2009 mehndi.

I just remember thinking, "How will I hold my beer now?"

FYI: Why I write...

2009-11-19T06:12:00.000-08:00

For those of you who know me, you know I've had a livejournal since I was 17 years old. Due to his highly personal content and long history I've closed it to the public.

However, I did realize that Remi and I moving to India is a great opportunity for blogging to a more friendly less serious tune for once. I do highly enjoy writing and I manage to always find the time, no matter how busy I am. I also felt it was a great opportunity to inform other potential expats on what life is like in India from a 26 year old American (and French) point of view!

So this blog will mostly be written by moi. Remi is extremely busy and even if he wasn't, blogging just isn't his cup of tea. I will include his views from time to time. So you'll be hearing moslty from me, hope that's ok? :)

AIC Field Work.

2009-11-04T21:53:00.000-08:00

I spend most of my time at the AIC Residential Program, but today I finally made it to the AIC Educational Outreach Center. All the students inside were shaking my hand, asking my name, where I come from, if I am married, lots of questions! Every time I answered one of their questions they squealed or giggled in delight and turned away in embarrassment. They want to ask you questions and get to know you, but sometimes they're a little shy to use English.

Then we were off to the nearby busti (slum) that our children come from. This was my first time seeing these areas up close. We were going there with a mission however, most of the woman who give birth in these areas do it from home and a record is never made of the child. Julia and I were going into the slums for a small meeting to document exactly how many of them need their birth records, not only for themselves but for their children. Birth certificates are needed for most things, from hospital visits to entry into the local schools. Most of them don't know when they were born, and they don't tell you the year either, they will simply say their age. Which Julia says changes almost daily, she says "Sometimes someone will say they're 43, but then you ask them again tomorrow and they'll say 40". It's really confusing, and it's not like they're lying to you, they honestly don't know. This particular area is where Ramu came from, I met his Grandmother, she is the only survivor of the family. She has some serious leg issues and is in bad health. Unable to walk she sits on the corner in these slums all day in the sun, she looks as if she must be 100+ years old. Dark wrinkly skin with deep dark eyes that look like they've seen too much. She asked us how Ramu was and Julia assured her he is doing well and very healthy now. His Grandmother looked as though she might cry, but the moment passed and we moved deeper into the slum. Everyone tugging on Julia's shirt, asking her questions, wanting help of some sort. These areas (made up of metal shacks, cement, and some brick) are usually home to multiple families or extended families. Soon as we arrive they bring us to the middle of the houses, we follow them up to a balcony, which had the scariest most unsafe steps I've ever been on. Children as small as 3 or 4 years old went up and down them without a thought. Something I've been getting more used to seeing here I guess. Once upstairs they lay a little blanket for us to sit for the meeting. The sun was late afternoon, and it was hitting all their little huts and little homes so beautifully. Clothes lines were hanging everywhere, trash littered the wet muddy cement ground where the children played...most of them half naked without shoes. The women of the village were at the meeting, some young, some old and heavily wrinkled from the sun, dark eyes, colorful saris, babies in their arms. It was a beautiful moment sitting here, listening to an elder with a huge white beard and tiny legs discuss his ailments, a hurting shoulder, weak knees, a back ache. A woman complaining about her tooth ache. Of course none of this is in English, Julia translated into English as they spoke. The woman mostly stared at whoever was speaking at the time but occasionally would look over at us and smile. They really love Julia here, she does so much for them and I felt really welcomed and safe here with them in their homes. They all looked so amazing in the sunlight that I had truly regretted not bringing my camera. As if Julia had read my mind she leaned over during the meeting and whispered "Next time you come you should bring your camera, we need some photos of the places where our children come from." I truly am looking forward to next time. After the meeting was over, children grabbed my hands, calling me Didi, following us as we walked out. Not asking for money or anything, just wanting to talk to me and touch me.

Diwali 2009.

2009-10-12T10:07:00.000-07:00

So Diwali is starting, super exciting fun holiday in India. I believe it lasts 10 days, as most Hindu festivals do.

Last Saturday the school got all decorated and had a huge party on campus. The decorations are still up actually since Diwali lasts so long. The entire building is done up with lights and the canteen has the cutest more colorful decorations up.

Anyway...back to last Saturday and the party, the students organized the music and DJ side and the faculty organized all the equipment and food. It was such a fun party, I cannot even describe it all. I thought (as did Remi) that it wasn't going to be good, usually from experience during Indian festivals on the streets they play really cheesy techno music, popular American pop songs remixed to a faster beat, it's just horrible. From the sound of the INSANELY loud bass we already were dealing with in our apartment while getting ready to go downstairs, Remi turned to me and said "If the music is really bad I'm not staying." However when we did finally head down, the music was totally different. I guess they were just warming up for the event because the students took over the music and a lot of the songs were actually stuff you might hear in San Francisco clubs. Some hiphop, house, and my personal favorite even some electro beats! All the men immediately got their heads wrapped in some sort of traditional Indian turban (reserved for special occasions). I got lots of photos of it. All night Remi's students kept calling him "Indian Brad Pitt" which is funny for 2 reasons: ONE, in town he has already been mistaken for Brad Pitt (especially when he wears his sunglasses), and TWO, in SF a lot of the girls in our friends group nicknamed Remi "the French Brad Pitt". Of course Remi loves it but he won't admit it. :P

They had also free mehndi (henna tats) given. I got one done on my hand with Charlotte (my newest friend and neighbor here), they also had face/body painting, and hair braiding. I'll give you a brief insight into Indian culture that I've learned so far. They truly want you to experience their life, their festivals, and their food. They never let you leave a buffet table without trying everything, they made every French student or teacher get the head wrap, they pestered me until I got my mehndi. Not in a mean way (am I making it sound mean?) it's a really sweet way. Like they REEEEEALLY want you to understand them and their culture, they wish to share with you. It's truly unique and it's universal here.

So, after some food, and several Kingfisher beers (really strong Indian beer) we got to dancing. The American in me kept thinking it's too weird mingling with students, drinking with them, dancing. It was like at first I couldn't relax. I didn't want to let go because Americans are professional, Remi is a teacher here, I am his girlfriend, his bosses are watching as well as students and it would be unprofessional to relax.

Which lead me to think this...Americans never relax, period. We are always worried about being proper or professional...(but thats another thought for another day)

Indian faculty members were the first to dance. Sharma was totally wasted (the dorm warden) kissing students cheeks and shaking everyones hands 20+ times like he always does. The accounting department kept pulling Remi and I to the dance floor encouraging us to dance to the bhangra style music. The students were cheering Phillipe (Remi's boss) on when he finally hit the dance floor. Guillaume was drunk, so was Petra, everyone was smiles and laughter, and just having an amazing time.

I just don't think this type of party is possible in the U.S. Of course maybe you have a few cool teachers in your life who maybe you go out with on occasion...but I'm talking about an entire schools faculty gettin' their groove on shamelessly.

Remi and I were all smiles all night long, it's like we were in constant amazement at everyone enjoying themselves. Everyone had fun, not 1 person left early, not 1 person said it was boring, not 1 person didn't dance, where else does that happen I'd like to know? Seriously?!

"Nesting" Phase.

2009-09-12T12:26:00.000-07:00

Been sorta getting into my groove here and now that I have another pc here + cable TV (Yay! finally works!), I haven't been into writing. It's been nice just trying to relax into my usual self. Set up some sort of normal life here with dinner together, some of our favorite tv shows, and of course some computer time!

But I'll give you an update. The school is sort of in a frenzy at the moment, the students have started arriving and school will officially start in less than a week.

As most of you have probably already seen from the facebook photos I updated, Remi and I finally went to the mall and bought some things for the house (living room photo posted above). Decorative things, what a difference I tell you! Remi wanted to be only practical, buying things we really needed like our drier and other much needed bathroom and kitchen stuff. But I told him we should have a small budget for decorative things, otherwise this place will keep looking like a hotel and never feel like home. It's definitely made a difference, even Remi agrees!

I spend my time doing lame women's work. By that I mean cleaning house, doing laundry, washing dishes. But I also do a lot of research on India, trying to find all the places we should go. I am sort of in charge of our vacations and weekend plans/entertainment. Not to mention the buying of all the items for the house we still need.

This whole 'staying home' thing is not permanent I can tell you that! I'm already getting a little cabin fever as it is. So I've been researching the Osho Ashram which is in downtown Pune and boasts the worlds largest meditation classes. It's cheap for a monthly pass to the Ashram, only like $20 a month. It's sort of like being a member to a gym, for your spirit. I really want to take part in the yoga classes they offer as well.

Six-seater 101.

2009-08-25T17:56:00.000-07:00

First, I will say the name "6-seater" is so misleading. They should seat only 6, but I've seen them squeeze in as much as 10 people. The driver makes the same fee from every person, so of course he tries to push in as many fares as he can. I had never taken one into town before, but I knew I needed to learn how it all worked, we wouldn't always have the campus car and driver available to us.

Charlotte (also a French expat here on campus) decided to go into town for some shopping and asked if I wanted to go. Since we're still new here there are many things we need for our apartment. We decided to take a 6-seater into the main hub of Hadapsar and take a rickshaw from there to the shopping center. Since campus is actually pretty far from Pune, about 30-50 minute drive (depending on traffic), we have to take the 6-seaters into town, then a rickshaw. We walked from campus to where they pick you up on the main highway. It was hot and sweaty standing there in the sun, and people stared at us like we were freaks (still something I am not used too). Charlotte finally hails the 6-seater and I notice there are people inside, she says, "Yes there is always people inside, hurry hurry, get in!" For some reason I imagined them like cabs, you hail your own. But no, and it was then the name "6-seater" was making sense. So I squished my big American ass in-between the smallest little Indian men. I took up about enough space for two of them. They squished over to let me fit in and Charlotte sat opposite squished between 3 others. I was really shocked, I had no idea we'd be riding with people and the uncomfortableness of this for me was almost unbearable. Along the way the driver kept stopping and picking up more people, I wanted to shout "Come on!?" But I didn't want to call any attention to myself...but seriously! We were packed so tightly and the drive is already a long, bumpy, and uncomfortable one as it is.

The pollution was so awful. Most Indians where masks or wrap scarves around their nose and mouth when in rickshaws or riding motorcycles to block the grime. I wasn't prepared, even Charlotte had a mask. So I used the hood on my sweatshirt to cover my nose and mouth. The pollution was so thick, my stomach was beginning to turn and I was praying I would not throw up. Dirt and debris were flying into my eyes and I was grumbling to myself the whole way.

The way back wasn't as bad. This time I knew what I was getting into at least. I smiled at the people in the 6-seater I shared with and they were very chatty and funny. When we first got in and were having trouble squeezing in, one of the guys said "Let the English woman sit!" They continued to call us English women the whole way and we didn't correct them. By the time we were getting closer to campus, the monsoon started, it was pounding the roof of the 6-seater and water was leaking in everywhere, the funny man across from us laughed and said (I think) "This is India!". The leaking roof was the least of our concerns, once outside of the 6-seater we had a long walk in monsoon rains back to campus! We arrived home completely soaked, but I had a nice hot shower and felt immediately better. The thunder from the monsoon was so booming it actually rattled the windows of our apartment!

It was a good day though, I was glad I learned how to go to town with the 6-seaters, should I ever need too. The pollution is what got to me most, I could barely handle 1 day completely immersed in it. I know Remi would hate it too, especially the part where crap flies into your eyes (literally), I kept imagining my eyes becoming infected eventually. I know, I'm paranoid. I do hate to sound prissy, but I care about the health of my eyes & lungs while I'm here. From now on I will probably stick to cars and use 6-seaters and rickshaws as a last resort.

First day in India and I'm totally zombied.

2009-08-21T23:34:00.000-07:00

Our arrival in Mumbai. It was 11pm and both Remi and I were nervous and exhausted from our flight. . This was our first time together somewhere completely new. We may have well just arrived on Mars, for this is exactly how it felt.

The Mumbai airport smells exactly how you would expect it too. Like curry, or to be more precise, Indian spices. The floors were a dark stained burgundy color, and the airport pretty much looked like it was stuck in some 70s time warp. Even though this is a huge international airport, I could count the amount of white people I saw. Even in the airport, we were a noticable minority. Stepping off was a tad scary, a man with one of those guns that detect temperatures was aiming at everyone, as well as people with masks asking for our "H1N1 Virus forms" we had to fill out on the plane.

Once through the virus patrol we were onto the customs officers and passport checkers. Relatively easy we moved forward, there were no people movers in the huge airport and all the walking needed to be done by you (which is a lot). It took us a fair amount of time to finally reach the exit. If we'd thought the difference from airport to airport was huge, imagine our expressions upon walking outside. Even at 11pm it's warm, but in a sort of warm tropical hug way. At least that's it felt to me. It felt really amaizng to be outside, and I couldn't help the big smile on my face. Our driver was in a hurry, he grabbed our cart of luggage and began weaving in and out of people. Remi and I had to start jogging to keep up.

Nothing can ever prepare you for Indian driving. Sure I've had Indian friends tell me not to drive in India, always use a driver. Traffic is bad, etc. But I assure you, I can probably not even fully describe how truly insane it is. There are traffic lights, but those apparently are only for if you feel like using them. Same goes for the painted lines on the ground to tell you what lane your in. There are no lanes. Pedestrians walk everywhere, in front of speeding motorcycles and buses. I couldn't believe my eyes, the minute you get to any decent speed a car pulls in front of you or an animal struts into view. And by animal, I mean all kinds. Cats, dogs, cows, especially cows. Cows in particular don't seem to mind the traffic at all, they're completely at ease in sitting in traffic.

Our driver was a master of the road, weaving in and out. In the beginning I felt surely someone or something will get hit before my very eyes tonight. However, all the drivers work in some sort of unison. It's like they're in this gigantic school of fish, though all independent hey somehow swim perfectly together like some massive organism. Nobody shouts at each other or gives any rude hand gestures. This is just how it is, and somehow...it works for them. You just sort of let go of any fears and let him do his job.

We were in that car for hours, around 4 hours to be precise. This is how bad traffic is, even at 1am. The distance between Mumbai and Pune is minimal, and probably close to the same distance as Orange County to San Diego, but imagine L.A. traffic the whole way. We're so exhausted when we arrive that we're not even coherent anymore. I didn't see much of Pune during the drive as it was dark (2am!) and I was in and out of consciousness.

We are greeted by an Indian man, he is balding and has a wirey mustache and bad teeth. He is some sort of warden of the building I gathered. I don't remember his name, I only remember he never looked at me nor shook my hand once. Which was quite the opposite for Remi, who probably received nearly 10 or so handshakes from the man. "Hello Sir, Mr.Marchand Sir, this way please Sir" in his heavy accent. The security guys at the door to the building open it for us as we walk in. They immediately take our bags for which I feel bad because they're extremely heavy and they were actually carrying them. Before I could try to explain the handle that pops out so you can roll it, the warden begins explaining stuff to Remi. I understand Indian accents better, obviously...English is my language. Remi squints hard as the man talks to him, a sign I know from experience means he has no idea what the man is saying. He is explaining where the canteen is for eating, afterwhich I say "Thank you." But he basically ignores me. We're shown to our apartment, on the 4th floor (I was excited about this, less mosquitos make it up that high). It's a nice apartment, the floors are shinny, a common floor style here. They take off their shoes when they come inside to show us around, how to work the lights and the air conditioners. They all wear sandals so they're barefoot walking around, I sort of giggle to myself because I find it very cute that these security gaurds in their fancy uniforms (looking like British infantry) and here they are barefoot in my house!

Once they finally leave, we take a look around. So, I'll say this in regards to the actual apartment. Upon closer inspection, it is sort of poor quality. Now, of course by Indian standards (*Note: By Indian "standards" I am addressing the majority of India, not the upper/middle class who use the internet and perhaps may get offended by that comment) I am living in a dream apartment here. So to be fair, this is high quality. Don't get me wrong, I love the apartment, I am completely happy with it. But everything is finished badly. There are paint stains on the new floors, the toilets flush so violently they splash water onto the seat. The showerhead for example is old, it already has some lime deposits on it. The door frames are black, but when they painted the white walls hey got paint all over every single door frame, looks like a child painted it, the light sockets are unstable and almost pull off the wall when you take your plug out. The list goes on, but it's all unimportant stuff. Stuff Remi and I can either rectify ourselves or work around.

We have a small British style fridge, in our huge kitchen (we've never had this much space in the kitchen before). With all the lights on and people gone I realize there are bugs around. Tiny beetles and ants. Not lines of them, but everywhere you look long enough you see one or two walking by. I'm strangley OK with this because I can see them on my floor. If it were carpet, I would feel a definite uneasiness. But, I smash them as I walk, not much I can do. We will definitely need a broom soon though, the little bodies are already building up. The bed is kingsize and hard as nails, we take the other mattress from the extra room and place it ontop of ours, it helps very little. Without much conversation we wash our faces, brush our teeth, and crawl into bed for our much earned reward...sleep.

Au Revoir France, Namaste India!

2009-08-17T07:27:00.000-07:00

Well 2009 has been a long year for us, a lot of planning and waiting. This idea started back in January and here we are, all the way into August and we're finally going to set foot in India.

We're beyond excited of course. We've been in Lille (pictured here) for nearly 4 weeks waiting on our Visas to come through, and now that they have it's a huge relief.

Today I am mostly packing and cleaning. We've been living at Remi's Dads house for the past week alone and we've been little pigs I must say. It's always hectic the last day, making sure laundry is done, scrubbing the floors we mucked up, and then packing...ugh. I've started my bag, which is in pretty decent order anyway because I never really unpacked everything when I arrived 3 weeks ago. Remi on the other hand has been here almost 2 months and his stuff is scattered about the house. I've been collecting everything and bringing it to our room to sort out in the final hours. For now, I am focusing on laundry and cleaning.

Remi went in town to have his tooth checked out by a friend who's in destist school. Yeah I know, weird thing to do on the day before leaving but we thought might as well get it all checked out before we go. Would be awful to have some sort of dental emergency in another country.

Anyway, next you hear from me we will be reporting from India!

En France.

2009-07-30T01:46:00.000-07:00

I was scheduled to leave the U.S.A. Monday @7pm from SFO. It was a long United (supposed to be Lufthansa, but cheapoair lied!!) flight from SFO to Frankfurt, Germany. Unfortunately for me the man sitting in front of me had a broken seat, so when he pushed the button to pop his chair back it actually tilted all the way into my lap, of which he didn't seem to mind at all! His bald head was right in my lap, I could barely read my magazines. It was a painfully long flight.

I delt with a mean German official who checked my passport, he was a big guy with a curly mustache that made it hard to take him seriously, he was so German looking. Once through this hurdle I had to re-check my carry-on for my Lufthansa flight to Paris which was in an hour. They didn't like my laptop cooler (a tray with a fan that cools your laptop while you work on it), I had to step aside and unpack my entire carry-on, which was embarassing. I had such random crap in my bag, I looked like a freak. Stuff I planned on bringing to India to help me decorate and make it more homey. Posters, magnets, a pair of shoes, a flat iron, four books (all random), little doodads and trinkets. Luckily the man swiped my laptop cooler with a pad that detects some sort of bad chemical and it passed. I was allowed to repack my crap and move on.

I was so tired, Lufthansa flight was short, a mere 50 minutes and I'd landed in Paris.

We landed in the airport of my nightmares Charles De Gaulle (don't ask!), and I was the walking dead by this point. Felt like I had a gigantic hangover. I hadn't slept in over 24 hours. I got my bag as quickly as possible and as soon as I walked out of the exit there was Remi, with a big smile on his face. I had not seein him in over a month, and his smile warmed my heart. He immediately gave me a hug, my long lonely flight with hours of sleeplessness was all worth it.

Everything negative my body had been feeling melted away, and in that instant, I felt home.

Sig

2009-05-30T19:35:00.000-07:00

Injections for India...ugh.

2009-05-21T01:56:00.000-07:00

Sitting there at the Kaiser Travel Clinic with Remi was weird, I was about to get my 4 injections needed for India. Tetanus, Polio, HepA/HepB, and Rabies. My 5th vaccine was via pills for Typhoid.

I told her about my previous reactions to vaccinations. The last one being when I was 18 years old for MMR booster (measels, mumps, rubella) and I had passed out. So she told Remi to buy a juice from the vending machine outside. Which turned out to be an excellent idea.

While Remi was gone she gave the tetanus, so easy and quick. No pain. She prepares the polio vaccine and right as I am sighing relief at how easy that was the darkeness came. Anyone who has passed out (not from alcohol) knows this feeling, the peripheral vision starts to fade, you turn pale, sweaty, feverish, dizzy, neausea, etc. All of that hit me so hard. I didn't need to say anything as she turned to me with polio ready and noticed my face, she pushed my head between my legs and said, "Don't sit up, you'll pass out." Sweat poured from me, she wet some towels and put them on my neck and back. Told me to breathe. I felt so sick. During this time she says, "Do you want me to do the polio or wait till this passes?" Knowing it would only drag everything out I asked her to do the polio, so with my head between my legs she pinched in the polio in my left shoulder muscle. I sat there for 15 minutes in agony, not sure if I was going to lose consiousness or just throw up.

Remi had knocked on the door, he had juice. He missed the whole scene which I was grateful for, I felt like such a baby. She decided this was all I could manage for today and that HepA/HepB and Rabies will have to wait till next week. I cringed, coming back here for more of this? Are you kidding? Why does this have to happen to me, every time. It's awful.

Remi wheeled me on the rolly chair into the next room, the doc turned the lights off and told me to lay down on the bed on my side. She told me I would need to lay like this for 15 minutes and drink my whole juice before she'd let me go.

God, I felt like such a wimp. Remi only 2 weeks earlier had received tetanus and MMR and all he said was, "I guess I felt a little dizzy for a minute".